touch on touch off lamp sensor, 240V

In the US and Canada 110, 115, 120 and 125 volts all refer to the one voltage range that is available through the common electrical outlet. The sources of these seemingly different numbers are as follows:

1. The 110 volt designation is older and familiar terminology, but are no longer used in either product design or by electric utilities in the US and Canada.

2. The 230 volt and 115 volt terminology comes from equipment design standards. Equipment is commonly designed to operate at 230 or 115 volts plus or minus 10%.

3. Electric utilities typically deliver electricity, under standard conditions, at 240 volts and 120 volts plus or minus 5% at the transformer.

4. The 250 volt and 125 volt terminology is from outlet, plug and switch design standards. The switches and outlets that we encounter in buildings, and the plugs that are on the power cords of our appliances are rated for the top end of their voltage range. Thus one will find they are marked 250 or 125 volts.

When one takes into account that equipment is designed to accept voltage variations of 10% at a minimum and that the electric utility regularly delivers electricity within 5% of their standard, there is a good match between the voltage the electric utility delivers and the voltage equipment was designed to use.
 
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Guys,

I am appreciative for all the answers :) Thank you.

hehehehehehehehh

Obviously the answers
"this can't be done" or
"it's impossible" or
"it does not exist" or
"it's impossible to do this safely"
are not the answers I'm looking for !!!!!!!!! :) heheheheheheh

There is no reason this cannot be done safely and in a compliant way.
A 4 wire device for 110/120V exists !!!! It exists .... !!!!! It exists !!!!!
( hot in, hot out, neutral, capacitive or resistive measuring touch wire ).

So assuming that there may be others of a different opinion or knowledge who have yet to comment lets keep the question open !!!! :)

BTW such lamps with touch them on / off can be bought in John Lewis though not any that I want.

THANK YOU !!!

:)

K ez
 
Hi Iggifer,

THANK YOU !!

I'm going to go buy that lamp from Homebase and dig the switch out !!!!!

I will post back to let everyone know how I get on !!

Thank you :)

K ez
 
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kez1 said:
Obviously the answers
"this can't be done" or
"it's impossible" or
"it does not exist" or
"it's impossible to do this safely"
are not the answers I'm looking for !!!!!!!!! :) heheheheheheh
Click to expand...
But they are the only answers you will get here.

kez1 said:
There is no reason this cannot be done safely and in a compliant way.
A 4 wire device for 110/120V exists !!!! It exists .... !!!!! It exists !!!!!
( hot in, hot out, neutral, capacitive or resistive measuring touch wire ).
Click to expand...
You have been told why you statement is incorrect - accept it and move on - please.
 
Hi Riveralt

Thank you for your comment.

I don't agree.

I have no desire to argue with you.

I'd be grateful if you would leave me to my post please.

Thank you :)

K ez
 
These folks know more about this topic than you do, Kez.

Do you think they come on this forum simply to find people to disagree and argue with? Many of them are professionals and offer advice on this site for free and for them all to politely tell you not only that you are incorrect but explain why you are incorrect should count for something.

On an unrelated topic, you may want to google "passive aggressive" - littering your posts with "thank you" and "heheheh" and smilies does little to disguise that what you are actually saying is "you're wrong - I don't care about your opinion - b*ggr off". This, in turn, is hardly going to endear people to you.
You'd be better off just saying what you mean - most other folks here, do.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Passive-aggressive_behavior
 
Its not the voltage that is the problem Its earthling in a standard UK light the metal body must be earthed this renders the touch sensitive part useless, if you used the 115 volt version on an earthed body it would not work.

The difference is in the US the metal body doesn't have to be earthed hence conversion kits can be sold.

YOU WILL NOT FIND A STANDARD CLASS II COMPLIANT LAMP SOLD IN THE UK THAT HAS A METAL BODY.

If you take the switching unit out of the Homebase one and put it in another lamp you will either have a dangerous appliance as there is exposed unearthed metal work or it will not work as the metal Is earthed
 
Ahtyrrell said:
YOU WILL NOT FIND A STANDARD CLASS II COMPLIANT LAMP SOLD IN THE UK THAT HAS A METAL BODY.
Click to expand...

Not correct, sir! I am looking at one right now.

The point of Class II construction is that the body can be metal, or whatever without it being earthed. For instyance - My bedside light has a metal body but no earth connection.
To be Class II it has to be constructed and tested to very rigorous standards (as outlined in a previous post).
 
Hi EFLImpudence

Thank you for your comment :)

If you get any information that helps me identify such a device I'd be grateful of your help.

If you don't feel you can or want to help me I'd be most grateful if you would let those who wish to contribute to do so without dispute.


Happy Sunday everyone :) :) The sun is shining :)


Thank you :)

K ez
 
Taylortwocities said:
Not correct, sir! I am looking at one right now. ... The point of Class II construction is that the body can be metal, or whatever without it being earthed. For instyance - My bedside light has a metal body but no earth connection. ... To be Class II it has to be constructed and tested to very rigorous standards (as outlined in a previous post).
Click to expand...
All obviously true - but I think the question is whether it would still be Class II after an amateur (or maybe even some professionals) had finished trying to incorporate a touch switch into it!

Kind Regards, John
 
More relevant is whether the lamp which the OP is trying to convert is capable of being converted to class II. I doubt that the OP has access to the relevant specs or knowledge to allow him to decide.
 
DetlefSchmitz said:
More relevant is whether the lamp which the OP is trying to convert is capable of being converted to class II. I doubt that the OP has access to the relevant specs or knowledge to allow him to decide.
Click to expand...
Again, true, (in relation to the OP) but I was talking about TTC's one, which he says is already Class II, so I believe him!

Kind REgards, John.
 
Taylortwocities said:
Ahtyrrell said:
YOU WILL NOT FIND A STANDARD CLASS II COMPLIANT LAMP SOLD IN THE UK THAT HAS A METAL BODY.
Click to expand...

Not correct, sir! I am looking at one right now.

The point of Class II construction is that the body can be metal, or whatever without it being earthed. For instyance - My bedside light has a metal body but no earth connection.
To be Class II it has to be constructed and tested to very rigorous standards (as outlined in a previous post).
Click to expand...

I perhaps phrased my reply badly, Of Corse there will be some class II lamps with metal bodies, but in general especially with old lamps its unlikely that a lamp with a metal body is class II compliant and remains that way after it has been modified
 
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