Does anybody know how bad a job a clutch change would be on a 1998 diesel Citroen Xantia (2 litre HDI)? I might have got myself "volunteered" for the job! Are there any special tools needed or any really nasty things to watch out for?
Clutch change in 2.0 HDI Xantia (1998 vintage)
- Thread starter Avocet
- Start date
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The Haynes manual gives a pretty good description, you can get them on ebay for not to much money. Any book for a vehicle with a 2.0.Hdi will help but the correct one is best. Its not a 5 minute job but doable with perseverance.
Peter
Peter
I would guess the suspension would have to be locked in the high position?
......and don't move the thing off the ramp without the driveshafts in the hubs
(don't remind me about that one
)
John
......and don't move the thing off the ramp without the driveshafts in the hubs
(don't remind me about that one
)John
Only difficulty is the multitude of hydraulic feed & return pipes, the pressure regulator is on the front of the engine sort of in the way of the gearbox, the hydraulic reservoir will be in the way, the clutch is a pull type clutch just to make it abit more tricky as you have to get the clutch arm fork lined up in the release bearing while holding the box in place! Trick of the trade here - use masking tape to tape & hold the release bearing to the pressure plate as you fit the box so it doesn't move, the tape will do no harm when it's left in the bell housing!
No need to lock the suspension in high, I would recommend depressureising the system as you will need to remove the drive shafts & this will be hard/impossible with the suspension in high as you will never get the bottom ball joints out.
To depressurise the system put car on ramp first with legs under if it's that type of ramp, set car to low suspension position, when it's down turn engine off & find the pressure regulator (the thing that clicks) at the front of the engine, it will be the devise with a sphere attached to it by the gear box, find an 11mm (I think it's 11!?) nut on that housing & undo it a little, you should hear the pressure release & that's it!
Don't forget to tighten the pressure release nut before you drive off or else you will have no brakes
With some luck you're height correctors will be in good order & you're suspension will rise once more after work is done!
Hope that helps!
Paul
No need to lock the suspension in high, I would recommend depressureising the system as you will need to remove the drive shafts & this will be hard/impossible with the suspension in high as you will never get the bottom ball joints out.
To depressurise the system put car on ramp first with legs under if it's that type of ramp, set car to low suspension position, when it's down turn engine off & find the pressure regulator (the thing that clicks) at the front of the engine, it will be the devise with a sphere attached to it by the gear box, find an 11mm (I think it's 11!?) nut on that housing & undo it a little, you should hear the pressure release & that's it!
Don't forget to tighten the pressure release nut before you drive off or else you will have no brakes
With some luck you're height correctors will be in good order & you're suspension will rise once more after work is done!
Hope that helps!
Paul
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Dark days indeed, Mr.A......all well documented in my saga 'Wots wrong with me van' where the vehicle when in for a damaged gearbox (allegedly) and came out with more faults than it went in with......including goosed wheel bearings, a distorted hub and a new clutch that still judders like hell.
Either the 'mechanic' was incapable or more likely, didn't give a toss.
John
Either the 'mechanic' was incapable or more likely, didn't give a toss.
John
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