Auto Filling loop

EddieK · 26 Oct 2007

Have very noisy 130 Keston Condensing gas boiler some 6 years old. Spent hours reading posts on this subject including one that suggested altering the setting on the Auto-by-pass (4 way) fitting to increase pressure. This has resulted in slow drip (1 per second appx.)from aperture @ rear of fitting and consequent further drop in pressure to around .2bar! Have now turned off c/h system (and turned on several electric fires!).Unlike non automatic filling loops there are no on/off \\\"switches\\\" on the flexible pipe from cold supply to 4way connector. Ignoring the original \\\"noise problem\\\" I am more concerned with:-
a) stopping the leak and
b) learning how to refill the system.
Any advice would be WARMLY appreciated.

Agile · 26 Oct 2007

I would like to help you///

However, I cannot understand what you are trying to explain///

There are no approved auto filling loops\\\

Why can you not repressurise your system with the ordinary approved loop?///

\\\Tony///

htgeng · 27 Oct 2007

Agile said:
There are no approved auto filling loops\\\
\\\Tony///

You not seen an EFD mikrofill ? However it would probably cost him more than buying a decent replacement boiler

Agile · 27 Oct 2007

I was speaking in a typical domestic environment!

Like the one he apparently lives in///

\\\Tony///

chrishutt · 27 Oct 2007

By the way, has anyone worked out why some posts appear with all those /// slashes \\\ ? Something to do with the software being used? I presume the posters don't mean the slashes to appear or even realise that they are. Perhaps the OP can tell us.

JohnD · 27 Oct 2007

it's because

"This topic originated from the Wiki page called Filling loop"

Bahco · 27 Oct 2007

JohnD said:
it's because

"This topic originated from the Wiki page called Filling loop"

Are those //// supposed to be links or something?

EddieK · 27 Oct 2007

Agile said:
I would like to help you///

However, I cannot understand what you are trying to explain///

There are no approved auto filling loops\\\

Why can you not repressurise your system with the ordinary approved loop?///

\\\Tony///

Hi Agile, thanks for response. Further explanation re loop (perhaps more correctly described as AUTO FILLING CONTROL ATTACHED TO 4 WAY CONNECTOR):-

CONNECTIONS ARE :-

a) from cold supply, cartridge containing filter, connected to
b) 15" flexi pipe connected to
c) 4 way connection
Clockwise #1 @ 3 = flexi pipe from c/w supply
#2 @ 6 = expansion vessel
#3 @ 9 = to heating flow
#4 @ 12 = to AUTO FILLING CONTROL via short 15mm c/p with gauge and black serrated knob showing anti clockwise arrows (one way only) inscribed on the plastic head.

Re my previous, hoping to gain increased pressure to reduce noise, I turned this knob very very slightly but as mentioned dirty water spurted from rear of fitting. Returning knob to original position has resulted in slow drip from same source, o'night 1 & half inches in bucket, C/H turned OFF.

Also o'night, decided to change to manual loop but my local plumber doesn't stock the valved variety! Will persevere and report the outcome.

Incidentaly, if I can't improve pressure via the AUTO FILLER (and I can stop the leak) would it be feasible to introduce water via the drain cock with mains connected hose?

Thanks also to the other posters; it seems the forward slashes // appear when I used double inverted commars (which in the forties we called 'lip marks' givin' me age away !!!)
Regards All... EddieK
ps Don't you guys go to bed?

AlanE · 27 Oct 2007

Do you mean speach marks "like this"

ChrisR · 27 Oct 2007

to AUTO FILLING CONTROL via short 15mm c/p with gauge and black serrated knob showing anti clockwise arrows (one way only) inscribed on the plastic head.

That is NOT an auto filling control, it's a Pressure Relief Valve, which should have a discharge pipe going outside!
You should never turn the knob, because if you do they tend not to reseat very well, and then they drip. Oh look, that's what yours is doing!

When you turn the PRV knob you'll lose pressure, which you'll have to restore by refilling through the manual filling loop (flexy hose with tap at one or both ends) until the pressure is correct (depends on installation but usually about 1 bar). If you turn the PRV knob so it clunks shut , again, you might find it stops dripping. Otherwise you need a new PRV.

EddieK · 27 Oct 2007

AlanE ... No, I meant SPEECH marks not SPEACH marks! (too fruity)

ChrisR...You win...It IS a Pressure Release Valve...Just had local ...

Customer
Often
Really
Good
Income

... engineer visiting, he reckons:-

1) Noise due to NO by-pass fitted between pump and return pipe allowing build-up of latent heat in system.

2) Remove (my Auto Filling Control), your correctly identified PRV, replace with valved manual filling loop.

3) Correct pump wiring to allow pump to continue running after boiler firing cycle shuts down. Should assist in dissipating latent heat & prevent noise.

4) Fit new Auto Air Vent

5) Give the system a good FLUSHING. I don't think I misheard him?

He expects to start work next Mon/Tuesday, I'll keep in touch regarding improvements (if any).

Meanwhile, many thanks to Agile & ALL for your contributions.

ps. Still slow drip (no jokes please) but have half bar on gauge when cold . CORGI man says OK to run system. Any thoughts?

htgeng · 27 Oct 2007

ChrisR said:
You should never turn the knob, because if you do they tend not to reseat very well, and then they drip. Oh look, that's what yours is doing!

Yes, never use them to drain a system. Once they are turned, they never reseat as there will always be some bit of tiny dirt between the washer and the seat, unless the system water is pristine.

I was once asked to fix a leak on a waste pipe which was causing staining on an inside wall. The waste pipe was covered in dense vines, and it was actually leaking. However it was one of those famous 'turned back' prv vent pipes which was causing the staining down the inside wall.

I hate those things- its just generally just down to laziness on the part of the installer. I shouldn't knock them though as I've just won a big installation as the guy wanted to upgrade to condensing/solar anyway.

clf-gas · 27 Oct 2007

ChisR corect yet again.........

The sheep shall follow

chrishutt · 27 Oct 2007

EddieK said:
it seems the forward slashes // appear when I used double inverted commars (which in the forties we called 'lip marks' givin' me age away !!!)

It's the fact that you know speech from speach and when to use apostrophes that gives your age away! They don't make 'em like that no more, guv'nor.

Rob · 28 Oct 2007

EddieK said:
CONNECTIONS ARE :-

a) from cold supply, cartridge containing filter, connected to
b) 15" flexi pipe connected to
c) 4 way connection
Clockwise #1 @ 3 = flexi pipe from c/w supply
#2 @ 6 = expansion vessel
#3 @ 9 = to heating flow
#4 @ 12 = to AUTO FILLING CONTROL via short 15mm c/p with gauge and black serrated knob showing anti clockwise arrows (one way only) inscribed on the plastic head.

Eh?

diynot

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Auto Filling loop

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