Urgent Help Needed. Worcester 28 CDI stopped working!

bigstej · 10 Jan 2008

Always happpens in Winter!
My Worcester 28CDI Combi Boiler has stopped working. Upon examination all seems fine other than the flashing red light for the hot water (the tap sign).
When I try to reset it the boiler clicks into life, the red CH light comes on as normal, there's a couple of clicks but after 30 seconds or so the red tap light flashes so no pilot light can then come on.
Can anyone help, I've looked on the forum but don't understand all the abbreviations etc. and no symptoms seem to match. I currently can't get any heating on and its freezing! (Even if its just a way to bypass the hot water and just have the heating until an engineer can come?)

possum_jenkins · 10 Jan 2008

i am assuming the boiler isnt firing up at all, as opposed to firing up and locking out. does the LED flash quickly ( 5 times per second) or slower?

frankthegasman · 10 Jan 2008

check that you have water in the sytem look at the bar pressure gauge should be 1 to 1.5 bar when cold if there is no water in it it want work good luck, the gauge is on the boiler.

Soggy_weetabix · 10 Jan 2008

If pressure is ok and pump is working you need a new PCB. Unfortunately this is quite an expensive job and a bit tricky for a DIYer.

A great boiler worth looking after (ensure an annual service by an engineer who deals with Worcestors).

Dave

bigstej · 10 Jan 2008

Pressure is ok, 1.5 bar, the light flashes but not quickly, more like twice a second. The missus now says she heard the boiler sounding "like a washing machine on spin" for the last two days!!
As for the pilot light, it doesn't manage to get to the point of ignition, the flashing light comes on within 30 secs of turning boiler back on.
Does anyone have any ideas on how much is "expensive" for a new PCB, in rough ballpark figures, just so I'm armed with info in case an engineer spots my limited knowledge and tries to take my eyes out?

Gasguru · 10 Jan 2008

Could be the fan has finally died after screeching. Don't know what price these are so maybe cheaper to call an independent rather than Worcester (on a fixed price repair).

Blasphemous · 11 Jan 2008

bigstej said:
Upon examination all seems fine other than the flashing red light for the hot water (the tap sign).
When I try to reset it the boiler clicks into life, the red CH light comes on as normal, there's a couple of clicks but after 30 seconds or so the red tap light flashes so no pilot light can then come on......

bigstej said:
(Even if its just a way to bypass the hot water and just have the heating until an engineer can come?)

Are you saying there is Hot Water? I'm not familiar with that boiler's 'Warning' and 'Status' lights but if you do have Hot Water and there is a 'Tap' light coming on it may be a 'Status' Light i.e. the boiler is telling you its current status... a Tap light (in a Status situation) would indicate that it is delivering Hot Water. If this is the case, the boiler cannot operate the Central Heating as it gives priority to Hot Water. Its a bit of a long shot but, go around the house making sure ALL Hot Water taps are firmly shut. You just might find that the Boiler is stuck in Hot Water mode due to a very small drip from a Hot Water tap. Once the tap is shut off the boiler can return to delivering Central Heating. It happens believe me!

Blasphemous · 11 Jan 2008

Hmmm! I've just checked the MIs for that appliance. This section seems to fit...

'AIR FLOW DEVICE (RSF ONLY)
The appliance will enter a lockout condition in the event of an
air flow fault. If the controls fail to detect the correct air flow through the
appliance the electricity supply to the gas valve will be interrupted.
If an air flow fault has occurred, the domestic water demand
indicator will flash (approximately five times per second).
The appliance will try to re-light after a waiting period of
approximately 4 minutes Check that the flue terminal has not been
obstructed or damaged. If this condition continues to occur, then call a
service engineer'.

It leads me to think that Gasguru is pointing in the right direction i.e. the Fan has died.
There's no harm in checking that the Flue Terminal is clear. Might be a plastic bag wrapped round it or something and its choking the Boiler.

bigstej · 11 Jan 2008

I've been recommended to call British Gas. Apparently if your boiler isn't working you can take up their 12 months cover and servicing plan whuch is £28 per month, minimum contract 12 months. For this they will send an engineer out within 4 hours to repair the current problem and repair/service the boiler for the next 12 months. I know that is over £300 for the year but with my problem I think that may be prudent as my boiler is about 7yr old? What do the experts here think?

twgas · 11 Jan 2008

bigstej said:
For this they will send an engineer out within 4 hours ?

should that not read 24hours

clf-gas · 11 Jan 2008

bigstej said:
I've been recommended to call British Gas. Apparently if your boiler isn't working you can take up their 12 months cover and servicing plan whuch is £28 per month, minimum contract 12 months. For this they will send an engineer out within 4 hours to repair the current problem and repair/service the boiler for the next 12 months. I know that is over £300 for the year but with my problem I think that may be prudent as my boiler is about 7yr old? What do the experts here think?

FFS, If it is the fan then you go ahead and pay B$G, £300 Ill stick to replacing them for £70 plus labour, so thats £100, saving you the customer £200. Make your choice

nickso · 11 Jan 2008

clf-gas said:
bigstej said:

I've been recommended to call British Gas. Apparently if your boiler isn't working you can take up their 12 months cover and servicing plan whuch is £28 per month, minimum contract 12 months. For this they will send an engineer out within 4 hours to repair the current problem and repair/service the boiler for the next 12 months. I know that is over £300 for the year but with my problem I think that may be prudent as my boiler is about 7yr old? What do the experts here think?

Click to expand...

FFS, If it is the fan then you go ahead and pay B$G, £300 Ill stick to replacing them for £70 plus labour, so thats £100, saving you the customer £200. Make your choice

its not just for the fan though is it? are you going to go out next week when the diverter fails and fix that for your £100?

bigstej · 12 Jan 2008

Nickso, I agree with you. I think I'll lay safe and get the annual cover. We've already had a small issue last year with the overflow pipe constantly dripping and also problems with pressure going above 3bar. If my combi is 7 yrs old then maybe an annual contract is a good idea. The small print with British Gas has no maximum callouts in one year and no maximum capped price on repairs. One more problem with the PCB, fan, etc and it would have paid for itself. I've called them back and they've confirmed that as its both heating and hot water thats off an engineer will call first thing in the morning. Thanks everyone for their opinions. Its a cracking website and genuinely helpful as always.

Kev beck · 1 May 2017

I know it's an old thread but I will comment just in case other have the same problem.

I had a similar problem. Boiler worked one minute then the hot water light would flash and not hot water...

If you ring worchester for £260 they will come out and fix it.... To a point!

The engineer came out, replaced virtually everything, mains board, fan etc. He told us we had a new boiler, there was nothing else to replace, but the problem occurred. He said the only other thing it could be was the flue, but they don't cover that! we are just waiting for another gas person to remake this then hopefully it'll work

ianmcd · 1 May 2017

well afraid he is talking *******s get them back and just tell them that if they thought it was the flue why did they feel the need to replace so many parts

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Urgent Help Needed. Worcester 28 CDI stopped working!

Soggy_weetabix

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