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cooker hood wiring ...


 
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alb

from United Kingdom

Joined: 02 Mar 2008
Posts: 5
Location: United Kingdom

PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2008 11:23 am Reply with quote

Hi all,
am looking at wiring in a new cooker hood :
cable on hood is very short & the nearest socket is down behind the cooker (10 inches or so off ground)
We have a gas cooker & nothing is connected to this socket at the moment - no red cooker switch - just a single socket.
Have checked fuse box & it is supllied by it's own 32a MCB - marked 'cooker' (!).
rest of mains sockets are run from a seperate 32a MCB .
am guessing this would be to connect a hob or even ignition for gas cooker to?

would it be ok to spur from this socket up to the height of the cooker hood (directly up behind plasterboard where hood will go) coming out at an FCU at top of chimney ?
many thanks for any help.
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Steve

from United Kingdom

Joined: 15 Apr 2005
Posts: 15902
Location: Yorkshire,
United Kingdom
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2008 6:41 pm Reply with quote

You'll probably find that socket is fed by 6mm˛ cable. You will struggle to get another cable in there.
Its fine to use for gas ignition, that will plug in, it only consumes a few watts, plus the oven light icon_wink.gif

I would find another source of power for the hood.
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alb

from United Kingdom

Joined: 02 Mar 2008
Posts: 5
Location: United Kingdom

PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2008 7:48 pm Reply with quote

hi steve thanks for the reply,
ok guess I should spur from the sockets above worktop to the right of cooker then instead..
wanted to hide as much wiring as poss but to do it safely(!) -
which of these is best ? :


the next closet socket is to the right of cooker above worktop,

So I'll I spur to the side of the socket for the fcu, then channel in straight up to a flex outlet outside top of chimney & wire hood into that,
( leaving a bit of cable visible coming out of top of chimney)

or is it ok to channel flex from fcu behind splashback & then straight up to outlet inside of chimney, hiding all cable ?

plasterboard wall so shouldn't be too hard to sort out either way...
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thompsk

from United Kingdom

Joined: 24 Feb 2008
Posts: 154
Location: Humberside,
United Kingdom
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2008 8:14 pm Reply with quote

Just a couple of thing there to bear in mind:
1. Ensure that the socket you will be connecting into is'nt a spur and that it is on a ring.
2. Make sure you can still access the socket for the hood.
3. This work is notifiable to your local council.
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alb

from United Kingdom

Joined: 02 Mar 2008
Posts: 5
Location: United Kingdom

PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2008 9:05 pm Reply with quote

hi thompsk,
thanks for reply,
1. not on spur already icon_smile.gif
2. would i need to wire a socket then at chimney, and plug in instead of a flex outlet with hood wired straight into it?
or do you mean it's best to have the socket / outlet outside of chimney as in my first pic ?
3. yep am looking into that part of the equation now !

icon_smile.gif
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RF Lighting

from United Kingdom

Joined: 31 Mar 2006
Posts: 17213
Location: Leeds,
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2008 9:38 pm Reply with quote

The socket does not need to be readilly accesible, as you are proposing to install an accesible isolator.

It should still be accesible for inspection, testing and maintanence.

IMO behind a removable chimney is fine.
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Softus

from United Kingdom

Joined: 21 Oct 2004
Posts: 19558
Location: United Kingdom
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2008 9:51 pm Reply with quote

RF Lighting wrote:
The socket does not need to be readilly accesible, as you are proposing to install an accesible isolator.

I went to fault-find a cooker hood recently, and the socket outlet was accessible only by removing the appliance, which had been incorrectly installed (with mounting screws accessible only from above, screwed in before the cupboards were installed), and only by damaging some tile grout and paintwork, which needed to be made good afterwards.

The fault: one plugtop fuse. icon_rolleyes.gif

The cost: two hours of work and some gnashing of teeth.
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