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Skirting boards a fraction too low for floor installation

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aflemi

from United Kingdom

Joined: 02 Jan 2008
Posts: 69
Location: Essex,
United Kingdom

PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2008 9:56 am Reply with quote

Re this recent post: Posted: Sat Mar 22, 2008 11:29 am Post Subject: cutting section out of skirting boards.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/DEWALT-DT2074-HCS-WOOD-JIGSAW-BLADE-FLUSH-CUT_W0QQitemZ120236681033QQihZ002QQcategoryZ20786QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

http://www.lawson-his.co.uk/scripts/details.php?cat=Multitools%20Bosch&product=63500

I need to raise the gap at the bottom of my s/b by approx 5mm to allow for thicker flooring than existing, which will be removed. What is the best tool for this, talking about 12m length with some fiddly bits around doors, columns etc. Does the de walt flush blade in the post above work, or do I need a new machine like the second one recommended?
It will probably still require a trim at the bottom as I'm unlikely to make the perfect cut all round that I would ideally like (unless someone knows of a wonder-tool, I am patient), so if unavoidable, some slight errors would be covered.
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big-all

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2008 10:20 am Reply with quote

the dewalt blade you show is for cutting flush to the FRONT of the jigsaw
for cutting worktops in situ for example

what sort of flooring are you installing!!!!!
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aflemi

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2008 11:42 am Reply with quote

I am fitting floating solid wood flooring but would prefer the expansion gap to be under the skirting rather than the flooring sitting back. ( I need 20mm of expansion gap so any trim on top would be too bulky. As it stands the flooring is thicker than the existing gap between bottom of skirting board and concrete sub-floor so need to increase this gap. The special blade would have to be used with a jigsaw horizontally, which is probably very unwieldy. Hope this makes sense?
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Bilioustrumpstaine

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2008 1:48 pm Reply with quote

A couple of options spring to mind,

Remove the skirting and cut it on a bench, or refit it higher up, or buy new skirting. icon_cool.gif

20mm seems a large gap icon_confused.gif Is this each side or overall icon_question.gif If it is overall then only 10mm each side which can be hidden with trim if reqd.

I don't know of any wonder tool that will cut skirting boards in situ icon_sad.gif

This will cut architraves and fiddley bits around doors, lay it on a piece of scrap to get the height right.

http://www.tool-up.co.uk/shop/diy/IRW10505164.html?id=PVIosjvC
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aflemi

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Location: Essex,
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2008 2:12 pm Reply with quote

Thanks, I'd rather not rip them all off as they are fairly decorative and expensive to replace. I've tried to prise them off but the adhesive is pretty tight. Also the manual pull-saw would take ages, thanks anyway, I'd rather spend the 40 quid extra and save a few hours tbh.
I was hoping there was some sort of lightwight angle-grinder type if thing that would cut through it fairly neatly in situ. Does anyone have experience of the http://www.lawson-his.co.uk/scripts/details.php?cat=Multitools%20Bosch&product=63500 ? do they think this would be the best tool for the job? Thanks again.
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big-all

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2008 2:30 pm Reply with quote

aflemi wrote:
The special blade would have to be used with a jigsaw horizontally, which is probably very unwieldy. Hope this makes sense?


the blade you show wont work for 2 reasons first it only protrudes 1 mm beyond the front of the jigsaw
and the base plate is around 35mm either side off the blade so the base plate will be on the floor whilst the blade will be 35mm up the wall


a cheap biscuit joiner would do it with a cheap chisel to finnish

http://www.toolstation.com/search.html?searchstr=66637
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Bilioustrumpstaine

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2008 3:12 pm Reply with quote

aflemi wrote:
Thanks, I'd rather not rip them all off as they are fairly decorative and expensive to replace. I've tried to prise them off but the adhesive is pretty tight. Also the manual pull-saw would take ages, thanks anyway, I'd rather spend the 40 quid extra and save a few hours tbh.
I was hoping there was some sort of lightwight angle-grinder type if thing that would cut through it fairly neatly in situ. Does anyone have experience of the http://www.lawson-his.co.uk/scripts/details.php?cat=Multitools%20Bosch&product=63500 ? do they think this would be the best tool for the job? Thanks again.


I meant use the pull saw for the doorways if you were replacing/removing the boards.

The Bosch tool is a copy of this http://www.feinmultimaster.co.uk/

It can cut the wood in situ but I wouldn't like to guarantee the finish as the straightness of the cut would be down to the operator, the biscuit jointer would be better IMHO
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GHFlooring

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Joined: 09 Mar 2008
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Location: Yorkshire,
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2008 7:24 pm Reply with quote

just a quickie if you intend to leave the skirting on and fit under it how will you get the correct expansion gap and how will you get the last boards in
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aflemi

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Location: Essex,
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2008 11:34 am Reply with quote

thanks GHF, it's a good point and one I've been thinking about, reading other forums. I hate the look of those wooden-effect trims and had been trying everything to avoid them. One side of the hall is mostly doors and where the stairs come down, which is carpeted and will hide the gap. It only leaves a few feet of s/b which I will replace.
Thanks for the view. the majority recommend hiring a door cutter which has a bigger range than a biscuit cutter, but needs to be used carefully to avoid damaging the blade. The recommended practice is to cut in to about 3-4mm short of the back of the board and chisel the rest out.
Happy to listen to other views, of course.....
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Bilioustrumpstaine

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2008 1:15 pm Reply with quote

You know what will happen if you hire a door trimmer, you will hit a nail or some other obstruction and then you will owe the hire company a new blade icon_cool.gif
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aflemi

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2008 1:52 pm Reply with quote

Yep, I know what you mean, however ,ost of the s/b is new (annoyingly, they fitted it to the height of old flooring) and is definitely not nailed. Also I am only shaving 3-4mm off the bottom so v unlikely a nail would be that near the bottom. I'll be careful.............Cheers.
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big-all

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2008 1:56 pm Reply with quote

cost you around 35 to hire for the day new blade around 60
http://www.hss.com/g/3141/Door-Trim-Saw-inc-Blade-110v.html

you only actualy need to remove one end and one side of the skirting
remove from the wall where the central heating pipes come through the floor or be prepaired to have overly large holes round the pipes to allow the floor to slide 8/10mm to slide half way under the skirting icon_wink.gif
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Bilioustrumpstaine

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2008 2:45 pm Reply with quote

aflemi wrote:
Yep, I know what you mean, however ,ost of the s/b is new (annoyingly, they fitted it to the height of old flooring) and is definitely not nailed. Also I am only shaving 3-4mm off the bottom so v unlikely a nail would be that near the bottom. I'll be careful.............Cheers.


Go for it, although I might be tempted with a biscuit jointer only as you will still have it for another day icon_cool.gif

Good luck and let us know how it worked out icon_smile.gif
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Symptoms

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 27, 2008 4:01 pm Reply with quote

flem - you want a Arbortech Tuff Cut Blade; it fits a angle grinder and is designed for the type of job you have in mind - cost 30 from:
www.axminster.co.uk.

Use a slip on timber below to maintain height (from floor) of cut.
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big-all

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 27, 2008 5:34 pm Reply with quote

Symptoms wrote:
flem - you want a Arbortech Tuff Cut Blade; it fits a angle grinder and is designed for the type of job you have in mind - cost 30 from:
www.axminster.co.uk.

Use a slip on timber below to maintain height (from floor) of cut.


yes i thought about a wood blade in a grinder but unfortunatly he[they] only want to remove 3 or 4mm icon_cry.gif

just a further point before laying any new flooring push/swing a hammer over all the floor to find tacks pins staples that are proud this saves your fingers and knees


head off hammer on the floor handle about 3 inches up to stop the claw scratching

in this instance it will stop you cutting above the line because you hit a nail thats a bit proud
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