Alcove cupboard build *All Finished!*

Thought I'd post some pics of the alcove cupboard I'm building, I've not really done much 'pleasure DIY' as some people may call it as most of my work has been for functionality if you get what I am coming from.

Anyway, almost done now just need to build the doors!

Tricky bit was making sure I still had access to the Radiator valve and it will just clear with enough room to maintain it if needs be.







The doors will be made from 3"x2" planed with a ply backing. Fitted with flushed hinges. A detail with a roman Orgee bit will be used to give it a nice edge.

Not sure how to finish the wood any suggestions?

Also some constructive criticism would be nice , we are all learning!

Cheers

i like the dancing drills in pic 1

looks good fella!

i guess you got 3 peeps working on it?

jefoss said:

i like the dancing drills in pic 1

looks good fella!

i guess you got 3 peeps working on it?

Click to expand...

i thought they where dueling

great job neds youve worked hard

constructive suggestions

when you have timber underneath and exposed mdf/ply you get a stronger and better finnish if you rebate the wood to fully accomodate the boards it also gives you a neater edge [more proffesional]

also a good idea to finnish the shelves a few inches back it looks better gives better accsess and allows taller items at the front

top would look better if it overlapped by around 18- 25mm forward and to the side where it overhangs just finnishes it off better[ this comment more applicable if the top matches a simmilar feature around waist height]

at the bottom i normaly set the front frame to sit on the skirting as this allows the base to sit on the skirting and be rebated on the top edge of the front frame bottom rail
this also usualy allows a matching plinth to be set back underneath


i am assuming the doors will be inset with the hinges on the door edges !!
and not surface mounted with the flush hinges on the door backs!!!!


dont take any off the above as critisism its not its personal taste

you should be over the moon at a fantastic job well done

Thanks for the kind words!

Cheers for the suggestion Big-All just what I needed, The hinges will be on the edges of the door and not just surface mounted, will be nicely concealed and flush!

And as for the numerous drills t was just so easy having not to keep swapping bits over for different jobs, one with masonry bit, one with wood drill bit, one with PZ2 bit and the 7.2v was used as the countersinker!

Will post more pics once all finished.

Cheers!

right i recomend you use 60mm[2.5"] non finnials youll need 3x20mm or [4x3/4"] screws

flush hinges by there nature are quite thin at around 1 to 1.5mm this governs your spacing so assuming your door opening is square and accurate you finnished door will need to be 3mm smaller than the opening to give you an even 1.5 mm gap all the way round

you frame will be 45mm from the wall you radiator will be around 55mm!!

make shure you sit the knickle on the door and not the frame as you need the hinge point as far forward as possible
the difference between pivot point at 42mm as opposed to48mm may not seem a lot but 6mm near the hinge translates to 3 or 4 inches difference more the door will open at the front edge before it hits the radiator

when you first fit the hinges the doors may spring open you need to shut the doors untill just the front edge is showing place a block off wood on the front top and tap firmly with a hammer then repeat opposit the bottom hinge
this will seat in the hinges and screws into thewood

any more questions just ask

Thanks for those fine tips! I'm really getting into this woodwork lark too Hopefully have time this weekend to finish this off.

Nice job, but will the bottom left door actually be able to open with the rad there?
It looks very close.

All done!

Well I'm not too happy about the varnish finish, and maybe I could have used a different product, but at the end of the day I'm still learning and I enjoyed it and overall pretty pleased with the outcome. Also you will also find the bottom left door had to be altered as it just too tight in the end, but doesn't look too bad. The doors took the longest to build out the whole project!Thanks for the tips and help which I can take to the next woodwork project... but for the mean time back to functional DIY and stuff that needs doing!

assuming its "antique pine" if you give it a top coat or two of dark mahogany varnish you will have a wonderfull deep rich mahogany colour where the red is a golden red but obviously only if you want a mahogany with a nice tone rather than a pine with a bad tone

Hmm OK, I'm assuming the last coat will need a slight rub down to accept a mahogany finish? I was thinking of going a darker colour but thought it would have been too much. As it happens this was the shade that didn't look too good in the end!