new socket
- Thread starter lina
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2scoops0406
You need to either :-
Take a spur off an existing socket, even if it's not near.
Extend and existing ring, even if it's not near.
If you have suitable room in the fuse box, create a new circuit.
However, personally I wouldn't advise any of the above, I think you're best off calling an electrician. Do NOT play around with the fuse box, there is a very real possibility of receiving a fatal shock from this.
Good Luck, most of all be careful !!
Take a spur off an existing socket, even if it's not near.
Extend and existing ring, even if it's not near.
If you have suitable room in the fuse box, create a new circuit.
However, personally I wouldn't advise any of the above, I think you're best off calling an electrician. Do NOT play around with the fuse box, there is a very real possibility of receiving a fatal shock from this.
Good Luck, most of all be careful !!
Lina - how accessible are the cables leaving the CU, and where, in relation to those, do you want the socket?
I'm just wondering if it would be an easy job to insert the new socket at the start of one of the rings.
I'm also a little worried that you thought you needed a socket nearby to be able to add a new one....
I'm just wondering if it would be an easy job to insert the new socket at the start of one of the rings.
I'm also a little worried that you thought you needed a socket nearby to be able to add a new one....
btw CU is the modern term for fuse box
your options are
1: put the socket on its own 15A/16A fuse/breaker
2: add a third 2.5mm cable to the breaker that is powering a ring and run it direct to a socket
3: disconnecty a ring cable from its breaker connect it to your new socket and then
option 1 is prefered if you have a spare breaker space in the CU
oprion 2 is probablly neater than option 3 as rerouting existing cables tend to get messy but option 3 may be easier if your CU has low terminal capacity.
your options are
1: put the socket on its own 15A/16A fuse/breaker
2: add a third 2.5mm cable to the breaker that is powering a ring and run it direct to a socket
3: disconnecty a ring cable from its breaker connect it to your new socket and then
option 1 is prefered if you have a spare breaker space in the CU
oprion 2 is probablly neater than option 3 as rerouting existing cables tend to get messy but option 3 may be easier if your CU has low terminal capacity.
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this is supposed to be a diy electrics help forumEddie M said:
adding cuircuits to a CU really isn't that hard and is something we commonly give diyers advice on here
afaict only the following are considered as things we shouldn't advise diyers to do
1: pull the service fuse
2: work on 3 phase
3: work on commercial stuff
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And what about industrial stuff ...
Some three phase is okay for DIYers IMO, such as connecting a three phase oven - just very basic stuff like that... anything involving the DB is out though.
Some three phase is okay for DIYers IMO, such as connecting a three phase oven - just very basic stuff like that... anything involving the DB is out though.
2
2scoops0406
plugwash said:this is supposed to be a diy electrics help forumEddie M said:
adding cuircuits to a CU really isn't that hard and is something we commonly give diyers advice on here
afaict only the following are considered as things we shouldn't advise diyers to do
1: pull the service fuse
2: work on 3 phase
3: work on commercial stuff
I'm hijacking the post here, but working from the CU, without pulling the REC fuse, is effectively working live no? I'm absolutley more than happy to be quoted as wrong, but I'd rather be safe than sorry.
The CU has a big switch which turns off power to all metalwork exposed inside. Assuming the sparks who installed it cut the insulation on the meter tails properly, then everything else should be safe to proceed with caution.
Even with the switch 'on' the busbar and all live parts before the mcbs should be at least partially shielded by plastic bits when the main cover is off.
Even with the switch 'on' the busbar and all live parts before the mcbs should be at least partially shielded by plastic bits when the main cover is off.
2
2scoops0406
Damocles said:
Yeah, agreed, that's where my situation and possibly others situations break down. If I 'm working on a circuit, then it is preferable to isolate only the circuit in question. Trouble is, some of the old cartridges in my Fuse box are broken, effectivley exposing the busbar, which I assume is capable of giving me, an 80A jump. Yes I know that the old FB must be replaced, as it is potentially dangerous, even though it is protected with a downstream RCU.
Oh a lot more than that. Not that it matters, dead is dead.Eddie M said:
But you shouldn't assume that everybody else's CU is in such a parlous state.
Indeed it must, and sooner rather than later!
Don't know what an RCU is, but if it's downstream it won't be protecting the CU...
2
2scoops0406
RCU??? what am I like?? sorry, RCD !! Yes it will stop me from getting a probably fatal bolt off the fuse box, that is if it works (which it seems to) but that is not the issue, if it doesn't work then accepted, I'm toast !! I have the quotes for a replacement coming in as I type. The old box, is knackered, old, dangerous, and has to go.
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