DIYnot
Local | Network
   DIYnot > Forums
Local | Network
DIYnot Network Local DIYnot Network Local  
  Forum IndexForum Index     RulesRules    HelpHelp     Join FREERegister Free     About CookiesCookies     SearchSearch     LoginLogin 

Stair handrail


 
Post new topic   Reply to topic    DIYnot.com Forum Index > Floors, Stairs and Lofts
Search this topic :: View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
grifter

from United Kingdom

Joined: 08 Dec 2008
Posts: 121
Location: Kent,
United Kingdom

PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2009 9:40 pm Reply with quote

I want to install a handrail up my stairs and just want some advise on a couple of issues. Firstly, what is the required height of the top of the rail from the nose of the stairs? I heard it was 32inches but please correct me if I'm wrong. Mainly though, if you look at my picture, you'll see that the stair wooden edge curves before the straight run up the stairs. Should I work from the nose of the 3rd stair up in the picture so the rail is parallel all the way up or from the wall at the 1st stair, which I would think looks odd, or is there a certain method for this? I only want a rail up the main stretch of the stairs I might add. If worked from the 3rd step up, how many brackets should I use. The length is 2.3 metres. Any help greatly appreciated. Thanks icon_biggrin.gif

Back to top
 Alert Moderators

If you do not want to see this advert, click here to login or if you are new click here to join free.
PaulJR

from United Kingdom

Joined: 17 Jan 2009
Posts: 117
Location: Humberside,
United Kingdom
Thanked: 9 times

PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2009 9:40 pm Reply with quote

Handrail height should be between 900mm & 1000mm, we use 900mm in commercial/industrial applications.

Use the line of the straight portion of the stairs.

Number of brackets depends upon what you are using for a rail, how strong your wall is, what you use for fixings.
Back to top
 Alert Moderators
grifter

from United Kingdom

Joined: 08 Dec 2008
Posts: 121
Location: Kent,
United Kingdom

PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2009 11:07 pm Reply with quote

PaulJR wrote:
Handrail height should be between 900mm & 1000mm, we use 900mm in commercial/industrial applications.

Use the line of the straight portion of the stairs.

Number of brackets depends upon what you are using for a rail, how strong your wall is, what you use for fixings.


Thanks for your advise. The wall I will be attaching to is solid, plaster skimmed over masonry. I will be using a hemlock round rail with the appropriate brackets. Going on this, how many brackets do you suggest?
Back to top
 Alert Moderators
big-all

from United Kingdom

Joined: 12 Jul 2004
Posts: 13785
Location: Surrey,
United Kingdom
Thanked: 893 times

PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2009 11:15 pm Reply with quote

i would personaly start just before the second step so someone strugling up the stairs can reach it before turning the corner also means you wont run out off handrail on the way down before reaching the corner
i would mount the brackets on a 4x1" plained wall plate with each end cut like half an octigon with three facets and a simple moulding around the face edge secured every 250mm or ever stud
first bracket 100mm from each end and the remainder spaced 600 to 800mm appart
Back to top
 Alert Moderators
grifter

from United Kingdom

Joined: 08 Dec 2008
Posts: 121
Location: Kent,
United Kingdom

PostPosted: Thu Feb 26, 2009 10:08 pm Reply with quote

big-all wrote:
i would personaly start just before the second step so someone strugling up the stairs can reach it before turning the corner also means you wont run out off handrail on the way down before reaching the corner
i would mount the brackets on a 4x1" plained wall plate with each end cut like half an octigon with three facets and a simple moulding around the face edge secured every 250mm or ever stud
first bracket 100mm from each end and the remainder spaced 600 to 800mm appart


Thanks for your comments big all. I did actually think about starting further back nearer the corner, but I thought it might look strange not running parellel all the way up. I haven't done it yet, so I will definately bear that in mind. As for the brackets, I was just going to attach them directly to the wall. I haven't really got time to make plates, and are they really nesseccary anyway, although in some instances I can understand they may provide a stronger surface to screw to.
Back to top
 Alert Moderators
PaulJR

from United Kingdom

Joined: 17 Jan 2009
Posts: 117
Location: Humberside,
United Kingdom
Thanked: 9 times

PostPosted: Thu Feb 26, 2009 10:14 pm Reply with quote

What Al suggests is easier. Fasten a length of timber the the wall - with the fixings about 300mm apart, then fasten the rail & brackets to the timber - it's called a wall plate.

If you try to fix the brackets direct you will not get all 3 wall plugs to take - one will always land in a mortar baed, and your rail will wobble.
Back to top
 Alert Moderators
grifter

from United Kingdom

Joined: 08 Dec 2008
Posts: 121
Location: Kent,
United Kingdom

PostPosted: Fri Feb 27, 2009 8:05 pm Reply with quote

PaulJR wrote:
What Al suggests is easier. Fasten a length of timber the the wall - with the fixings about 300mm apart, then fasten the rail & brackets to the timber - it's called a wall plate.

If you try to fix the brackets direct you will not get all 3 wall plugs to take - one will always land in a mortar baed, and your rail will wobble.


You guys obviously know what you're talking about. I will go with the wall plate to make sure it is nice and secure. Thanks for the good advise, and I'll let you know how it went
Back to top
 Alert Moderators
cyclonebri2

from United Kingdom

Joined: 06 Oct 2009
Posts: 123
Location: Derby,
United Kingdom

PostPosted: Tue Feb 02, 2010 9:51 am Reply with quote

Sorry for dragging up an old post but the picture the OP has posted is exactly the scenario I am working on at my daughters home.

My query is given that with the kit of parts we have,ie, 3 x 1.2mtr Oak rail with 4 brackets and 2 ends, the only option is to run parallel to the nose line of the staircase as suggested above. It does however mean that the last 3 wider steps obviously do not have the handrail at the same level.
With a direct to the wall rail you could simply run the rail horizontally fom the 2nd or 3rd step to conform.

Anyway, I've installed it as initially described. As this is getting towards the end of a major refurb involving all trades, the build ins has still to come for the final inspection, will he have an issue??

I should add that as the stairs turn through the 90 degs at the bottom there is a dwarf wall forming the end approx 1.4 in height from ground level. It's like this as originally it was glass block, now removed, from this height up which seemed ridiculous.

I could always run a short section of oak rail mounted above this if needed but don't wish unless absolutely reguired????

Any veiws icon_question.gif
Back to top
 Alert Moderators
big-all

from United Kingdom

Joined: 12 Jul 2004
Posts: 13785
Location: Surrey,
United Kingdom
Thanked: 893 times

PostPosted: Tue Feb 02, 2010 3:55 pm Reply with quote

just draw the lines on the wall in chalk within the guidlines off the regs at a level thats comfortable extend the ends to a point where they overlap or finnish at a practical visualy pleasing point icon_wink.gif
Back to top
The following user says thank you to big-all for this useful post:
cyclonebri2 (3 Feb 2010)
 Alert Moderators
cyclonebri2

from United Kingdom

Joined: 06 Oct 2009
Posts: 123
Location: Derby,
United Kingdom

PostPosted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 7:56 am Reply with quote

big-all wrote:
just draw the lines on the wall in chalk within the guidlines off the regs at a level thats comfortable extend the ends to a point where they overlap or finish at a practical visualy pleasing point icon_wink.gif


Exactly what I have done mate. they stop 25mm short of the top and bottom with the fancy ends on, that was with 30mm removed from a 3600 rail icon_wink.gif
Back to top
 Alert Moderators
Search this topic :: View previous topic :: View next topic  
Post new topic   Reply to topic    DIYnot.com Forum Index > Floors, Stairs and Lofts All times are GMT
Page 1 of 1

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
Similar Topics   Replies   Views   Posted 
Stair Handrail Detail 4 60 Sun Nov 27, 2011 1:24 am
New handrail 3 700 Fri Aug 11, 2006 10:35 pm
removing old handrail 3 2180 Tue Oct 24, 2006 7:34 am
STAIRS: Wobbly newel posts, handrail & spindle removal 5 7200 Tue Nov 21, 2006 11:12 am
solid wood handrail - no brackets 3 5540 Mon Jul 10, 2006 12:22 pm


 
DIYnot
Find an Expert | Find a Supplier | Search DIYnot.com
Network | Advertising | Newsletter
DIY | DIY How To | @home | DIY Wiki | DIY Forum
By using this site you agree to our Terms of Service / Disclaimer.
Please read our Privacy Policy. Copyright © 2000-2014 DIYnot Limited.