Replacing Diverter for Mid Position Valve wiring question.

My system had an ancient Honeywell v4044 dirverter valve with 3/4" BSP female fittings that was sticking, so I have replaced during this warmer period with a 22mm v4073 mid position valve with the plan of moving to the Y plan. (The cost of pipework and v4073 was cheaper than replacing the v4044)

My question is, until I change to the Y plan, can the Mid position valve be wired to W plan so I have
a) No current the system is in hotwater only
b) Apply current, valve moves to CH only.

Valve wiring configuration on the 4073 is:
White = Heating on
Blue = Neutral
Grey = Hot water off
Green/Yellow = Earth
Orange = Boiler and pump live

So after connecting earth and neutral, do I just connect the white wire to where the brown wire was on the 4044 and leave the orange and grey connected to nothing(but insulated)?

Thanks Simon

Bypassing the valve, stick on manual open, and shut all the rad valves for the time being would be the best solution for the time being.

ubik70 said:

My question is, until I change to the Y plan, can the Mid position valve be wired to W plan so I have
a) No current the system is in hotwater only
b) Apply current, valve moves to CH only.

Click to expand...

Yes

Valve wiring configuration on the 4073 is:
White = Heating on
Blue = Neutral
Grey = Hot water off
Green/Yellow = Earth
Orange = Boiler and pump live

Click to expand...

That's not strictly correct. In the Y plan, the boiler is controlled by the HW thermostat when the valve is in the HW only or HW and CH positions. The orange wire is redundant.

In CH only both white and grey wires are live and the boiler is then lit via the orange wire.

So after connecting earth and neutral, do I just connect the white wire to where the brown wire was on the 4044 and leave the orange and grey connected to nothing(but insulated)?

Click to expand...

That would just allow the valve to go to mid position (CH & HW). You need to connect both white and grey wires to where the brown was. The orange wire can be left disconnected and insulated.

Here are the wiring diagrams for W Plan (V4044C)

View media item 12997
and Y Plan (V4073A)

View media item 70

Thanks for the help on this. Water and heating now working as HW priority. Now I just need to get some more wire into the walls and move to the Y-plan.

As a newbie I'm hoping to add something here which may help people but also willing for someone to tell me I've done it all wrong.
I've got a Worcester heat slave which just before xmas decided to heat the rads independent of my commands (controller settings). An obvious diverter valve problem I think and indeed it was, the valve was stuck solid and the motor gear assembly very worn. On gripping the valve shaft and trying to free it off the little bugger came off in me hand. The valve was the Honeywell V4044 22mm variety. Well at least it made it clear I needed a new valve so off I went to all the local haunts to get one. No one had a 4044, everyone had a 4073 and could get a 4044 after xmas probably in a week or so with this weather ect. I decided to get a 4073 and move the thing manually if need be to get heating for the family over the xmas hols. This is where my plumbing experience comes in to question the V4073 appeared to be a mid valve thingy that had a small circuit board in it which balanced the valve position depending on what the inputs are. Whereas the v4044 had simple motor connections i.e. on or off and a single micro switch that fed back to the controller once the valve was fully across. Nothing ventured nothing gain I said to myself so I snipped the circuit board out of the v4073 (feeling brave) and connected the motor cables up to the same core as the 4044 and soldered a couple of cables on one of the micro switches in the 4073 (there are two) and thus connected these up to the cables that used to be the feedback signals for the 4044. Switch boiler on and b***** me with a fish fork it works, seemly perfectly. It prioritises hot water by shutting of the CH and feed both the CH and hot water heat exchanger when on CH but as there’s no cold water flowing this doesn’t seem to matter. Anyone think of a problem with what I’ve done? Except for the obvious efficiency loss. Thanks

Or you could have just connected the white and grey together and made the orange safe.

I'm not doubting you but the motor power cables got fiddled with, with the circuit board and thus I thought I would also need to by pass this and connect straight to the motor. The feed back signal I replicated but don't really know what would happen if it was made all the time.

doitall said:

Or you could have just connected the white and grey together and made the orange safe.

Click to expand...

That would turn the V4073 valve from a mid position into a diverter, but how would the boiler light?

D_Hailsham said:

doitall said:

Or you could have just connected the white and grey together and made the orange safe.

Click to expand...

That would turn the V4073 valve from a mid position into a diverter, but how would the boiler light?

Click to expand...

It's a heatslave Dave with hot water priority.

All the valve does is opens and shuts when it's told too by the boiler.

doitall said:

It's a heatslave Dave with hot water priority.

All the valve does is opens and shuts when it's told too by the boiler.

Click to expand...

Of course, it's a W Plan. I must still be suffering from the effects of over-indulgence during the last few days.

Is it didn't seem to work properly if I just connected the motor wires from the 4044 to the 4073 the circuit board didn't allow the valve to go fully accross.

Sorry to bump an old thread but my confusions are still a plenty.
The old boiler with my modified v4073 mid position valve has been working flawlessly since I put it in a couple of years ago as mentioned earlier in this thread.
However last Sunday no heating as the boiler had tripped. On investigation I found the V4073 had sprung a leak out of the hole where the valve rod comes out to meet the power head. Not much I can do about that so off I go to the only place available on a Sunday afternoon (Screw fix) and made it with seconds to spare before they closed. But of course I could only get another V4073 equivalent.
My boiler is a Worcester heat slave 20/25 the manual is here

http://www.london-plumbers.org.uk/manuals/worcesterbosch/oil heatslave 12-14.pdf


On page 18 it clearly states diverter valve (not mid position valve) but also shows five wires? Why would it need five wires for a V4044? The original valve fitted was indeed a V4044 so that’s my first confusion.
A gent suggested in this thread that rather than altering the valve controller I could link the white and grey cables together and disconnect the orange so I thought I’d give that another bash. Unfortunately it doesn’t work, with the Orange disconnected the circulating pump doesn’t run, it needs a supply on the Orange to run. Also with the white and grey connected together the valve motored in to the CH position with a HW demand or not thus didn’t control as it should.

The original wiring doesn’t have a white but has a brown instead. Connecting the V4073 up colour for colour and white to brown the valve seemed to operate in reverse i.e. got confused with HW and CH demands. I then tried swapping the colours so white from valve went to grey on boiler and grey on valve went to brown on boiler I reconnected the orange to the boiler orange and it all appears to work?? Though I suspect when it is in HW mode it is actual in the mid position rather than right the way across to the HW port. The HW and CH seem to work correctly though and the water is getting hot enough.

I wish I’d kept the original valve to inspect closer but I know it was a Honeywell V4044 so how could the orange have done anything as the v4044 doesn’t have an orange according to this documentation.

http://www.uk-plumbing.com/brochure/honeywell/V4044Data.pdf

or was it a special 4044 with feedback switches ?
Could anyone with a bit of experience shed some light on what is going on here? Could it be the boiler was wired for mid position valve or diverter?

Thanks to all

doitall said:

Or you could have just connected the white and grey together and made the orange safe.

Click to expand...

Aye, old dog & new tricks.................

perfo said:

Was it a special 4044 with feedback switches?

Click to expand...

Probably. There are three versions of the V4044:

V4044C - no internal switch, so just motor connections, brown and blue;
V4044F1034 - as C, but with one-way switch, orange and grey;
V4044F1000 - as C, but with two-way switch - orange, grey and white.

I thought it was a VC4613MF6000 7.1Kv you require for that appliance??
But hey, I'm just another old dog.............ruff, ruff!!!!!.......