doing a kitchen refit and same problem bodged electrics!only a ring main double socket on the wall.have been told i will have to feed 2 new 10mm cables across the house,one for the hob,one for the oven.does this mean i have to have two isolators on show in the kitchen?
cooker/hob wiring
- Thread starter bigt
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Are you sure you know enough to tackle the job, with a question like that?
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Read the regulations on this, you will see that only one 10 mm cable is required to one cooker isolator (in the UK) and provided that the hob and the oven are not more than 2 metres away from the isolator, you can connect them both to the same isolator.
When you work out the current demand, don't forget to allow the correct DIVERSITY, you'll be surprised how the assessed current falls... only for domestic installations though.
When you work out the current demand, don't forget to allow the correct DIVERSITY, you'll be surprised how the assessed current falls... only for domestic installations though.
Thanks Bob.have found out rating of hob=6200W max,unfortunately can't find oven rating as not arriving for 2 weeks!Neff web site doesn't show imformation.What threw me into confusion was a sparkie telling me I needed 2 10mm cables to feed the units.Can I just feed one cable to the cooker supply switch and two from it?I think the sparkie was living in the ideal world,if one goes wrong isolate it and still got the other in tact.Why not isolate the power and whip the wires out feeding the faulty appliance!
If you can get 2 x 10mm² cables in...BobRathbone said:
The oven is a built under double circotherm forced air system and conventional top oven with grill,model no U1721 by Neff. I might end up putting two 45A single box switches into a dual flush mount split box,so I can isolate both independently.
6mm is fine for your hob and will almost certainly be fine for your oven (doubles are susally too high for a 13A plug but are nearly always below 7KW.
just run two seperate 6mm cuircuits (or a 6mm and a 10mm if you wan't to allow for a large single unit cooker in future) from 32A breakers in the CU.
just run two seperate 6mm cuircuits (or a 6mm and a 10mm if you wan't to allow for a large single unit cooker in future) from 32A breakers in the CU.
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Your'e right big T,
The suggestion made by the sparkie was within regulations, but not the accepted method, unless either the hob or oven were outside the 2 metres distance )as the crow flies not cable length).
The their is the issue of "Do I fit a cooker control with a 13A socket outlet"?
The simple answer is no, if you weant a socket for the kettle etc, connect t to the kitchen ring circuit. Your cooker circuit is an 'exclusive circuit' as are the immersion heater and electric shower. Do not connect a spur into the cooker circuit to supply the cooker hood, it contravenes the regulations.
Good luck, keep the connections tight especially the CPC.
The suggestion made by the sparkie was within regulations, but not the accepted method, unless either the hob or oven were outside the 2 metres distance )as the crow flies not cable length).
The their is the issue of "Do I fit a cooker control with a 13A socket outlet"?
The simple answer is no, if you weant a socket for the kettle etc, connect t to the kitchen ring circuit. Your cooker circuit is an 'exclusive circuit' as are the immersion heater and electric shower. Do not connect a spur into the cooker circuit to supply the cooker hood, it contravenes the regulations.
Good luck, keep the connections tight especially the CPC.
Are they not just circuits? As long as they are designed for the load they will have to carry what is wrong with using them for more than one thing?BobRathbone said:
My shower circuit also supplies the coil of a contactor to switch the extractor fan - seems perfectly safe and reasonable to me
But you could plug it in if the CCU had a socket. Which shows, 100%, that spurring off the cooker circuit instead is just as safe. Safer, in fact, as you know that nobody will plug in a kettle.
a) Safety is more important than the regulations, a fact recognised by the Building Regs now.
b) I'll bet there's an alternative regulation which would allow it.
c) You could classify a hood as a cooking appliance.
Bigt - after getting them all good and tight, take the accessories off the wall a few days later and check again - you'll probably find that the conductor strands have settled a bit, and the screws can be tightened a tad more.
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