Do you have to drain your CH system to fit thermostatic valves to radiators?
thermostatic valves
- Thread starter foobsy
- Start date
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Yes
I CHANGE VALVES WITH OUT DRAINING BUT YOU NEED TO GET IT RIGHT
YOU NEED TURN OFF SYSTEM , MAKE SYSTEM AIR TIGHT IF YOU HAVE OPEN
VENTED SYSTEM ( EXPAN, TANK IN ROOF) YOU NEED TO ISOLATE OR CAP
OFF BOTH OPEN VENT AND COLD FEED PIPE SHUT OFF THE VALVE ON THE RAD YOU ARE NOT REMOVING.THE END WITH THE VALVE YOU ARE CHANGING DRAIN VIA UNION NEAR RAD INTO CONTAINER IT WILLSLOW
TO A STOP FAIRLY QUICKLY ( PS IF YOU HAVE ANY AUTO AIR VENTS YOU
MUST CLOSE BEFORE DRAINING AND REMEMBER TO OPEN WHEN FINISHED
AND REMOVE CAPS ON OPEN VENT AND COLD FEED ITS IMPORTANT )
IF SEALED SYSTEM TURN OFF SYSTEM, DRAIN SYSTEM TILL NO PRESSURE ON GAUGE AND PROCEED AS ABOVE NOT FORGETTING ANY
AIR VENTS.
GOOD LUCK
MARTY STOP FUC***G SHOUTING, PUT YOUR CAPS LOCK OFF
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D
dextrous
Eh? What? Half past 7
I'll drain down. All raads upper and ground floor to be installed. Is there a particular rad I don't install a thermostat on? Usually the hall rad I think.
I'm not going to install thermostats on the heated towel rails either.
What do you suggest I add when re-filling the system as sludge inhibitor? Any brand better than the others?
Ta
I'm not going to install thermostats on the heated towel rails either.
What do you suggest I add when re-filling the system as sludge inhibitor? Any brand better than the others?
Ta
Do not fit a TRV on the rad in the room where the room stat is. If this room has two rads, leave it off the rad nearest the room stat.
No reason not to put a TRV on the bathroom rail. Just set it quite high if you want.
If you are going to drain the system, it is always worth giving it a clean. If it is an open-vented system, this is very easy, buy a litre of Sentinel X400 for £15 and let it circulate in the system in normal use for 4 weeks (ideally) before draining and rinsing. You will know it is working when the circulating water goes jet black with suspended sediment that it has loosened. It is not acidic or aggressive unlike faster cleaners.
On refill add a litre of X100 at the same price.
Bale out the F&E tank to remove the mud and sponge it clean before you do anything else. Fit a close-fitting lid and insulating jacket if it does not already have one (if you have a pressurised boiler there will be no F&E)
After finishing you will have to re-balance the system, there is some advice on how to do it on here somewhere. You may be surprised at how near to closed the lockshields have to be.
Consider replacing the lockshield valves while you are at it if they are showing their age. If they are Pegler Belmonts post them to me.
No reason not to put a TRV on the bathroom rail. Just set it quite high if you want.
If you are going to drain the system, it is always worth giving it a clean. If it is an open-vented system, this is very easy, buy a litre of Sentinel X400 for £15 and let it circulate in the system in normal use for 4 weeks (ideally) before draining and rinsing. You will know it is working when the circulating water goes jet black with suspended sediment that it has loosened. It is not acidic or aggressive unlike faster cleaners.
On refill add a litre of X100 at the same price.
Bale out the F&E tank to remove the mud and sponge it clean before you do anything else. Fit a close-fitting lid and insulating jacket if it does not already have one (if you have a pressurised boiler there will be no F&E)
After finishing you will have to re-balance the system, there is some advice on how to do it on here somewhere. You may be surprised at how near to closed the lockshields have to be.
Consider replacing the lockshield valves while you are at it if they are showing their age. If they are Pegler Belmonts post them to me.
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