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Replacing wooden lintel

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crazylarry

from United Kingdom

Joined: 05 Aug 2009
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Location: Leicestershire,
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2010 2:01 pm Reply with quote

I have a wooden lintel above a small window. This lintel has rotted. Below the lintel the brickwork is inset. Where the lintel meets the wall underneath there is a gap exposing inside. This gap has just had concrete poured into it to plug the gap.



I imagine I need to replace this lintel pretty quickly. How do I go about it? Get a competent builder in to replace like for like? Or use a concrete lintel?

Many thanks,

Matt
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noseall

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2010 5:08 pm Reply with quote

That is one unusual lintel/window arrangement!

The smaller window opening is almost so small as to be insignificant, particularly when the larger window adjacent seems to be adequately supported.

You also appear to have what looks like a Flemish brick bond which again is a strong brick bond and will help spread the load internally.

Is there any sign of downward movement?
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PrenticeBoyofDerry

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2010 5:08 pm Reply with quote

replace it with a concrete one.
and is that grey pvc sheathed twin and earth dangling near the pipe work?
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crazylarry

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2010 5:19 pm Reply with quote

No sign of downward movement at the moment. But above the top lintel is the airing cupboard, and I recently removed the hot water cylinder which was leaking heavily for a while. Therefore the lintel is rotten on the left as you look at it in the picture, but the right hand side doesn't seem to be too bad.

PrenticeBoyofDerry - yes it is.
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noseall

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2010 5:25 pm Reply with quote

I would be surprised to see any movement even if you were to remove either lintel apart from a brick or two local to the aperture.

That said a rotten timber lintel will cause trouble regardless so removal and replacement ad PBD suggests will do the trick.
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tfish

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 28, 2010 9:31 am Reply with quote

can you reach this without scaff? could be expensive if not
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PrenticeBoyofDerry

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 28, 2010 11:31 am Reply with quote

crazylarry wrote:


PrenticeBoyofDerry - yes it is.


Besides the fact it's not fixed securely. icon_eek.gif
Twin and Earth, Flat Grey PVC Sheathed cable is not suitable for an outside environment, without protection from the weather. it is susceptible to extreme weather condition and will disfigure, become brittle and the insulation will then fail. icon_eek.gif
Who put it in icon_question.gif
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crazylarry

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 28, 2010 12:23 pm Reply with quote

PBD - no idea who put it on. Would you recommend some kind of shielding\trunking?

About the lintel - do you think I should get some acros underneath ASAP?
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PrenticeBoyofDerry

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 28, 2010 2:05 pm Reply with quote

Looking at the size of the cable could have well been installed for a shower, but should not be run outside unless run in conduit or a more suitable cable used to protect it from from the elements.
You said the wood lintel is rotten, I'd guess that you wouldn't need an acro for support, as looks like the wall could be self supporting, I'd rip it out and replace it straight away.
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crazylarry

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 28, 2010 2:27 pm Reply with quote

Yes there is an electric shower-soon to be replaced with a mixer.

Lintel: the two struts supporting the lintel seem to be OK. Do you think I could just replace the horizontal part of the lintel with a concrete one and leave the two brackets in place?


Last edited by crazylarry on Sun Mar 28, 2010 9:10 pm, edited 1 time in total
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crazylarry

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 28, 2010 9:10 pm Reply with quote

Can anyone give me specs on a concrete lintel needed. Will this type from Wickes be good enough http://www.wickes.co.uk/Concrete-Lintel/invt/244002?

And what should I replace the brackets with?
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PrenticeBoyofDerry

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 28, 2010 9:39 pm Reply with quote

Measure the lintel you have in place at moment, that is the size you need, ideally the bearings over either side of the window should 150mm, so thats 150mm either side=300mm plus your masons opening, that's the window sizes.
If you are considering getting a non electric shower, I would disconnect that cable at the CU/fuse box, to prevent any hazards.
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Static

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 29, 2010 9:55 am Reply with quote

You might want to prob the lintel with an acro either way just to be on the safe side..

A couple of solid precast lintels should be enough, but size of them will depend on what load is coming from above. To me it looks like there is no bearing for the lintel on the right hand side and thats just taken onto the gallows bracket..
You might want to consider replacing the old gallows bracket with a new one while your at it., (assuming they are wooden as well and your not into painting every few years)
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noseall

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 29, 2010 11:14 am Reply with quote

Static wrote:
To me it looks like there is no bearing for the lintel on the right hand side and thats just taken onto the gallows bracket..


I assumed the exact opposite. The window to the right appears to have a header arch above that bears on each end thus the need for a gallows arrangement on the adjacent lintel at the same height.

In other words the gallows fella is not bearing on anything to the right hence the gallows.
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Static

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 29, 2010 11:46 am Reply with quote

noseall wrote:
Static wrote:
To me it looks like there is no bearing for the lintel on the right hand side and thats just taken onto the gallows bracket..


I assumed the exact opposite. The window to the right appears to have a header arch above that bears on each end thus the need for a gallows arrangement on the adjacent lintel at the same height.

In other words the gallows fella is not bearing on anything to the right hence the gallows.

Sorry, just bad wording on my part.. i ment the wooden lintels right hand side... so i concur! icon_smile.gif
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