I've just moved house & inherited a boiler with attitude! When my ch or water is turned on, the flame lights & then dies back. It ususally works on the 2nd attempt but, means I can't set my ch on timed & I have to give guests a crash course in how to turn on the water (which incidentally works 1st time if the heating is on!) I've had the PCB, Thermistor & every connecting lead to the PCB replaced at great expense bur to no effect, the problem is still there. Can anyone suggest what it may be? I can't believe that this is a unique fault. Thanks in advance.
worcester 24i RSF
- Thread starter spider1
- Start date
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eh? So does it go out or just down after lighting? How does that give you hot water? Does the flame stay up some times and not others?
You shouldn't have to pay someone to do trial-and-error testing with major components, like the pcb. Ask for your money back!
Sorry, I should have been clearer the flame initially lights & then goes out altogether after about 5 seconds. On the second (sometimes 3rd) attempt, it lights & then stays alight which gives hot water or CH so the fault is intermittent.
I haven't check the cooker thing yet but I'll do that next. Thanks for the advice on money back as I wasn't sure whether this should be something fairly easy to diagnose or if you just have to live with! What i know about CH/Boilers etc... you can write on the back of a postage stamp so I'm largely at the mercy of 'so-called' professionals. So you suggest complaining about the fault diagnosis that's been used?
I haven't check the cooker thing yet but I'll do that next. Thanks for the advice on money back as I wasn't sure whether this should be something fairly easy to diagnose or if you just have to live with! What i know about CH/Boilers etc... you can write on the back of a postage stamp so I'm largely at the mercy of 'so-called' professionals. So you suggest complaining about the fault diagnosis that's been used?
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that sounds like the aps is faulty imho
IF the boiler is going out after an EXACT time of around 5-6 seconds every time, then it sounds as if the flame is not being detected within the alotted time frame.
If so that may be due to an incorrect ignition pressure setting rather than a part failure.
Checking the cooker flame is a 1 minute job.
Tony Glazier
If so that may be due to an incorrect ignition pressure setting rather than a part failure.
Checking the cooker flame is a 1 minute job.
Tony Glazier
Advice on money back! I was called yesterday by a sensible sounding fellow who had been having problems getting his boiler repaired. It was tripping the RCD at first intermittently but by today after just a few seconds.
He had called the manufacturers independent service agent and they changed the PCB and charged about £210. This did not effect a cure and they came three more times with three different engineers and were unable to identify the fault issuing a bill for the time involved of another £200. They later agreed to refund the £200 but not the £210.
I went this morning and identified the fault in 22 minutes. I did this using diagnostic methods without tripping the RCD. There was 25 mA leakage to earth on the wall thermostat circuit. I found this with a simple £10 pocket multimeter although I had a Fluke 77 with me and an earth leakage clamp on meter just in case it was something more involved.
The customer now realises the PCB was fine but whilst I expect him to get the labour element back eventually, he has stupidly thrown the ( perfectly good ) old PCB away!
Tony Glazier
He had called the manufacturers independent service agent and they changed the PCB and charged about £210. This did not effect a cure and they came three more times with three different engineers and were unable to identify the fault issuing a bill for the time involved of another £200. They later agreed to refund the £200 but not the £210.
I went this morning and identified the fault in 22 minutes. I did this using diagnostic methods without tripping the RCD. There was 25 mA leakage to earth on the wall thermostat circuit. I found this with a simple £10 pocket multimeter although I had a Fluke 77 with me and an earth leakage clamp on meter just in case it was something more involved.
The customer now realises the PCB was fine but whilst I expect him to get the labour element back eventually, he has stupidly thrown the ( perfectly good ) old PCB away!
Tony Glazier
Thanks again for your help. I've now checked the cooker flame - had to wait for a visitor as the boilers upstairs. There's no alteration to the flame when the heating's switched on.
The good news is that I've kept the old PCB so presumably I can tell the corgi guys this & it will help me to get a refund.
Like I said, I'm no plumber so am a bit confused as to what an RCD is and what it actually does. My limited understanding comes from the fault diagnosis flow charts on the back of the instruction booklet for the boiler.
The good news is that I've kept the old PCB so presumably I can tell the corgi guys this & it will help me to get a refund.
Like I said, I'm no plumber so am a bit confused as to what an RCD is and what it actually does. My limited understanding comes from the fault diagnosis flow charts on the back of the instruction booklet for the boiler.
Spider, ignore Tony's ramblings. The RCD (residual current device - I think) is nothing to do with the boiler and is not relevant to your situation.
However tony's diagnosis of your fault is correct (as always) - failure of flame detection.
However tony's diagnosis of your fault is correct (as always) - failure of flame detection.
Hi my first post and its a problem....lol.
Spider1 I have the same fault on my combi as you, did you resolve your problem, if so what was at fault.
I have had 2 heating engineers out, one from worcester who says it may be the pcb and one from british gas saying it may be the air pressure switch but neither one could guarantee it. I had the flow rate checked by a corgi registered engineeer and it was working well within the millibar settings.
I have checked the cooker thing since i have recently had a meter exchange along with the regulator thiny and all seems well no loss of flame.
I am considering buying spare parts but dont want to throw my money away on trial and error.
Any help gratefully appreciated.
Spider1 I have the same fault on my combi as you, did you resolve your problem, if so what was at fault.
I have had 2 heating engineers out, one from worcester who says it may be the pcb and one from british gas saying it may be the air pressure switch but neither one could guarantee it. I had the flow rate checked by a corgi registered engineeer and it was working well within the millibar settings.
I have checked the cooker thing since i have recently had a meter exchange along with the regulator thiny and all seems well no loss of flame.
I am considering buying spare parts but dont want to throw my money away on trial and error.
Any help gratefully appreciated.
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