kitchen socket heights

kr1s1991 · 13 Oct 2003

Is there a recommended height to put in sockets above the worktop as i have a new kitchen coming on friday and i am considering

putting in a seperate ring main for the kitchen or at least adding some sockets, also can you hire the tools needed to chase out the cables ( i see they sell the drill bits in screwfix but they require a better drill than i have - i think

) Any tips or advice welcomed

,
Thanks in advance.....

masona · 13 Oct 2003

I'm not a electrician.

You can hire a box sinker

from most Tool Hire shop.

I'm not sure what the recommended height on worktop,I would've thought not too low as it can be awkward to use and not near the sink & hob area ? The electric guru hopefully will tell you soon!

ban-all-sheds · 13 Oct 2003

Yup - you can get box sinkers and chasing tools, but they all require roto-stop SDS drills, and I guess that's what Kris is saying he doesn't have.

I don't think there is a recommended height, but people who sell DIY kitchens will often have design guides.

I've got some about 12" above the worksurface and some about 18", and I've come to the conclusion that you can't have them too high, but they can be too low.

When I finally get round to replacing my kitchen, I'm going to give serious consideration to something like this:

(see http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_In...s_Menu_Index/Under_Worktop_Sockets/index.html for full range*).

Or possibly this sort of thing:

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Trunking_Pvc_Index/Dado_Trunking/index.html *

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Trunking_Pvc_Index/GilflexGX3800/index.html *

mounted high up on the wall directly under the units - it looks neat, it's infinitely variable and easy to change later, it avoids having to cut and channel the walls, it makes tiling easier.....

* other suppliers of trunking etc are available

breezer · 13 Oct 2003

dont like the first one, but you can never have enough sockets in a kitchen ours has its own ring (a must) and our kitchen has 5 twin sockets and it must only be 10 X 14 feet (and that's pushing it a bit)

spark · 13 Oct 2003

The 14th Edition wiring reg's used to say 150mm from the surface, but that's no longer the case. I would say use your tiles as the best guide; you want to minimise the awkwardness (spelling?

) of cutting your tiles around the boxes in the wall. Generally 150mm (strangely enough

) from the surface to the bottom of the box is usually ideal.

lilac · 19 Dec 2010

could someone please update me on this one ? I have read that 150mm or 6 inches is acceptable to have sockets above worktop but ideally I only want 100mm or 4inches as the sockets are in place but as we are tall want to raise the hieight of worktop. Is there a requirement to have 150mm or is it a recommendation ?

also is it a requirement to have socket (or in my case fused switch) 50mm from edge of has hob - mine currently buts up to edge of hob (but does not go behind hob) - can't move hob further due to boiler position - is the 50mm a requirement or a recommendation

thanks pending buyiing right height legs for cabinet

Lectrician · 19 Dec 2010

100mm is fine if this fits your tiles well.

Many sparks will fit the sockets to 1.2m to the top, inline with the switch heights of new builds.

riveralt · 19 Dec 2010

lilac said:
could someone please update me on this one ? I have read that 150mm or 6 inches is acceptable to have sockets above worktop but ideally I only want 100mm or 4inches as the sockets are in place but as we are tall want to raise the hieight of worktop. Is there a requirement to have 150mm or is it a recommendation ?

also is it a requirement to have socket (or in my case fused switch) 50mm from edge of has hob - mine currently buts up to edge of hob (but does not go behind hob) - can't move hob further due to boiler position - is the 50mm a requirement or a recommendation

thanks pending buyiing right height legs for cabinet

You should have started a new post not dig one up from 2003!!

150mm seems sensible for socket height.
300mm is the suggested distance away from the hob for cooker switch. Reg 132.12 doesn't give specifics but it does state the switch should be accessible for operation etc.

pjcomp · 19 Dec 2010

Watch out if you're having an upstand from the worktop. These can be quite thick, and if the socket is too close above it you'll find you can't plug things in properly as the moulded tail from the plug won't bend enough.

PJ

PrenticeBoyofDerry · 19 Dec 2010

The guidelines are a minimum of 300mm to the side of a hob, sink or drainer and a minimum of 150mm from worktop to centre of socket outlet.
This are only guidelines and not requirements, but think not only practically but logically too, that the accessories are suitablly installed for the environment.
Socket heights are to prevent damage to plug top and flex

lilac · 19 Dec 2010

thanks for all your replies - I was measuring the 100mm from the bottom of the socket so that is helpful
glad the 300mm is only a guideline as if i move 300mm from hob i will be less than 300mm from the sink. I have used the hob in this position before removing all - and did not have any problems - I did not use the back burner much anyway and usually keep an eye on cooking
think i would rather have the sockets/switch nearer the hob than the sink - can smell burning plastic but water and elec don't mix....! thanks

ElectricianDirect · 19 Dec 2010

masona said:
I'm not a electrician.

You can hire a box sinker

from most Tool Hire shop.

I'm not sure what the recommended height on worktop,I would've thought not too low as it can be awkward to use and not near the sink & hob area ? The electric guru hopefully will tell you soon!

These are great for soft building blocks, but prior to using the box sinker you need to use the circular cutter which can kick up a lot of dust and can seemingly take forever if the masonry is hard. In occupied homes I don't even get my box cutter out - the drill, old-fashioned bolster and club hammer seems to do the job better.

With kitchens it's possible to provide a 50mm deep false wall between worktop and wall units IF the worktop and wall units go from wall to wall - this saves any messy work because, with pre-planning, the socket outlets can be mounted on dry-lining boxes cut into the fabric used to make the false wall (cement based shower boards are excellent) and then tiled over.

With over 30 years within electrical mechanical engineering and construction refurbishments it seems strange my first C&G was in catering and I worked my way during college by being a fitted kitchen studio rep and then designer

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kitchen socket heights

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