Cooker wiring

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I am all electric and have 2 units Hob and Oven
The Hob uses 6.4kw and the oven uses4.9kw
Both being maximums.

I have a double pole cooker switch with 2 x 6mm wires feeding (ring)the switch and 1 x 6mm cable coming out.
I also have a 2.5mm cable free on the 30 amp ring.
Any suggestions , can I put the 4.9 kw and the 2.5mm and the cooker on the 6mm.
Do I have to put a switch on the 2.5mm.
Or do I have to rip the 6mm wire out and replace with 10mm?
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The cooker circit is there- 1 cooker switch with 6mm cable which I have since found comes in (feed) and out across the room to the existing cooker( will be removed).
There is also a 2.5mm bit of cable coming out the wall which had a socket conneted under the units ( feeding the fridge which is now a cupboard)
I hope this helps.The double oven only pulls 4.9kw if top oven is on full and bottom is on full.
I understand I will use the 6mm to feed the hob.

Any simple suggestions saving me a rewire?
 
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not sure what you mean by "I also have a 2.5mm cable free on the 30 amp ring."

but you can not put both on the 6mm, if you could elaborate a bit more please
 
Looks like your running in a new supply if your oven is 4.9kW
& stick your hob on the existing cooker (6.0mm)

But as breezer said "elaborate"
 
Few suggestions:

1) Replace your electric hob with a gas one and use the cable to feed your oven...

2) Get some-one else to wire in a new circuit if you dont want to do it..

3) Replace your double oven for a fan assisted one, and then you can connect it into your socket circuit.

I know the above are not great but I cant see any other way without installing a new circuit.
 
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Thanks il78
Firstly I dont have gas, 2nd I have just brought these.3rd it is a fan oven, but the book says- 4mm cable for use up to 25amps.
this is worrying both the old hob and doulble oven were connectef to the 6mm cooker circit.
 
Its a bit weird...you could of left the kitchen as it was and you wouldn't of known a thing and not cared....but now you have opened a can of worms....but this happens with everything...

4.0mm and 6.0mm price ain't that much different...I would go for the 6.0mm though.....book is probably saying 4.0mm from fuse board to a 20Amp double pole switch which you could do....
 
:rolleyes: I've got a great hob 6300w, it leads into a terminal outlet box, then to a control box with ajoining spare socket then down some fat? cable to a 40A trip switch (MCB?). seems my new built-in oven will drain a further 3000w, so I guess the trip-switch will hold out normally. Doesn't this mean though, with cooker & hob ever at full load, there will only be 300w left for the spare socket? havent got many appliances that'd use so little!.
Should I therefore:
a) put a sign up saying "Never Use Full Hob + Oven + Socket (unless for a radio!)"
b) swap the cooker control panel for one which doesn't include a socket,
c) explore upgrading the trip-switch to something like a 60A? or does this option require routing an extra or even fatter cable (presently carries 39A no probs)
d) run the oven off a plug connected to the control box, so it could be unplugged if the socket was required for something else!

Can anyone state which of these options are preferable, naff, inpracticle or just plain illegal. Please?

Also can I connect the new oven to the same terminal outlet box as the hob or does it need it's own path to the control box?
 
The rule for calculating the load that a cooker represents is:

10A + 30% of the full load of the appliance in excess of 10A + 5A if the cooker unit has a socket.

So in your case of 9300W = 40A thats:

10A +9A + 5A = 24A.

So your supply is fine, and provided whoever put it in used the right size "fat" cable to be protected by a 40A breaker then nothing needs changing. And at only 3kW go for option (d) - wire the hob into the outlet plate and plug the oven into the socket.

OOI -
(a) pointless
(b) would then introduce a physical problem of how do you wire 2 appliances into the one outlet
(c)would almost certainly require replacing the cable - I'd be very surprised if it's already wired with 16mm...
 

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