Painted Quarry Tiles

dkhd · Posted: Thu Nov 06, 2003 4:03 pm Post Subject: Painted Quarry Tiles

A familiar story, with a hopefully happy ending:
I have a wonderful bed of quarry tiles in my kitchen. But they have about three layers of red paint at various states of wear. I would like to properly restore these tiles rather than just repainting.

What is the tried and tested method to get back to the raw quarry tile? The paint is not flakey. The tile floor is fairly level. Exposed areas reveal a dull orange (terracotta) colouring. I do not fear hard graft. I would like to avoid using harsh chemicals.

Once I get to a fresh quarry tile surface, do I then apply the linseed oil to clean or the cardinal red to polish? And to carry on, at which point do I seal the floor?

Many thanks in advance.

masona · Posted: Thu Nov 06, 2003 5:05 pm Post Subject:

See this from previous post.

To be honest I can't see how you can removed paint without using any chemicals.See what the others think.............

oilman · Posted: Fri Nov 07, 2003 7:20 am Post Subject:

I can't either, try this

dkhd · Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2004 2:19 pm Post Subject:

Thanks for the help and advice.

I did indeed need to get a chemical stripper and in the end it was really no big deal. I was easily able to get hold of NitroMoss. As long as you are methodical and careful with the application, then it eats and bubbles away the paint effectively.

Once paint free, I used linseed oil to further/deep clean. Not sure what great effect it had, but that route seems to be promoted often here.

I was not able to easily locate any CardinalRed.But was able to get "Tableau" RedTilePolish, which to me, looks like a big tin of red shoe polish - probably is!

The polish gives a pleasant red colour, but I am not certain as to the longevity of this surface. Very slippery though!!

The final result is a huge success

- my manky floor now has a clean evenly coloured surface. THe restoration process is slow, but satisfying.

-DKHD

__________________
Coventry, UK.

DavidH · Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2004 2:26 pm Post Subject:

Just for info ScrewFix do a disc and arbor that fits in a 115mm angle grinder that is supposed to remove paint, varnish and rust without damage.

masona · Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2004 2:31 pm Post Subject:

See this

oilman · Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2004 4:53 pm Post Subject:

I think screwfix is not telling the truth, any abrasive will affect another surface, and if you had a fine matt surface you would probably finish up with a polished surface for instance.

Nitromors is methylene chloride based, and is a de-fatting agent, so though it stings when it gets on your skin, it's not corrosive.

Linseed oil used to seal the surface, takes lots of coats, first few (or more) thinned 50:50 with white spirit. Apply 1 coat daily for a week, then weekly for a month, then monthly for a year, job done.

Linseed oil was the base for linoleum, so if you put on enough coats........

masona · Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2004 5:00 pm Post Subject:

oilman wrote:

I think screwfix is not telling the truth, any abrasive will affect another surface,

Agreed,even heat fiction got to leave burnt marks.

dkhd · Posted: Fri Jan 23, 2004 8:13 pm Post Subject:

Hi Again.

Let me get this right.

I used NitroMors to remove old flakey paint to get to raw Quarry tile material. Then I used (boiled) linseed oil to clean (I think). And then I used red polish to restore a deep and even colour.

Did I get the application order wrong?

Should I have cleaned the floor, applied the red wax, then put on the linseed oil (assumed rub in with cloth) and then repeat the linseed oil applications?

Is there a difference between "boiled" linseed oil and (non-boiled) linseed oil?

Many Thanks

-DKHD

__________________
Coventry, UK.

oilman · Posted: Fri Jan 23, 2004 10:07 pm Post Subject:

Don't know about which order to put things on, But boiled linseed oil polymerises faster than raw linseed oil.