Cutting Contiboard

Matt_B · 3 Apr 2006

Hi people first post

I'm building my daughter some fitted wardrobes with the main ingredient conti, i'll be using a hand power saw and know that the best cut face will be the underside but what edge will be best ?? the first edge that the blade touches or the last edge that it cuts through??

Hope someone can make sense of that as i'm struggling!!

I'm a bit tight with the wood so can only make one wrong cut

Thanks people for any tips

Matt

Diyisfun · 3 Apr 2006

If you are using the correct blade & its sharp & you cut gently, they will both be ok.

Matt_B · 3 Apr 2006

Diyisfun said:
If you are using the correct blade & its sharp & you cut gently, they will both be ok.

Thanks Diyisfun, it's a new blade so will rip it any way thats easy for me

Cheers

Matt

Scrit · 3 Apr 2006

Matt_B said:
I'm building my daughter some fitted wardrobes with the main ingredient conti, i'll be using a hand power saw and know that the best cut face will be the underside but what edge will be best ?? the first edge that the blade touches or the last edge that it cuts through??

Hi Matt

Make all your cuts from the same side of the board. The better quality cuts will be on the underside of the board as you cut it. Try to reduce the depth of cut of the circular saw so that the teeth project through the board you are cutting only 3 to 4 mm.

Try to make your cuts so that any chipping will be hidden by joints or in inside corbners (less noticeable than outside of the carcass)

Scrit

joe-90 · 3 Apr 2006

Make sure the end you are cutting doesn't sag or you'll find it cracks the corner off. Use a blade that has many teeth rather than a rip saw.

joe

loscurrie · 13 Apr 2006

I always use Bosche 101br downward cut jigsaw blades and a quality jigsaw. The good cut is then on top where you have scribed.

Scrit · 13 Apr 2006

loscurrie said:
I always use Bosche 101br downward cut jigsaw blades and a quality jigsaw. The good cut is then on top where you have scribed.

The problem with using a jig saw is that it's impossible to get a truly straight edge in MFC (melamine faced chipboard) - or one straight enough to be edge-banded. A circular saw and a batten are a far more accurate approach.

Scrit

loscurrie · 13 Apr 2006

All the wardrobes i make are scribed to the wall but for a straight cut with no chipping and suitable for edging I would use the Festool saw and track. I would love a panel saw but it won't fit in the living room

.

Scrit · 13 Apr 2006

loscurrie said:
I would love a panel saw but it won't fit in the living room .

That's why ours gets called the "aircraft carrier"!

ChippyBoy · 16 Apr 2006

loscurrie said:
All the wardrobes i make are scribed to the wall but for a straight cut with no chipping and suitable for edging I would use the Festool saw and track. I would love a panel saw but it won't fit in the living room .

I agree, i use a Festool plunge saw and track.

Symptoms · 24 Oct 2007

You must use a blade designed to cut this type of laminate; yes, a large number of teeth is a must so is the profile of each tooth. If you've got a lot of cuts to do invest in a clamp-on guide as this will save you the very awkward task of positioning & clamping a battern as a sawing guide.

Geeno · 10 Feb 2008

Has anyone heard anything further about the new blade mentioned by Max Ashton?
I'd like to get hold of some to make cutting laminated board easier.

Max Ashton · 31 Mar 2008

Geeno said:
Has anyone heard anything further about the new blade mentioned by Max Ashton?
I'd like to get hold of some to make cutting laminated board easier.

Currently in production but still waiting for the launch date but will be available first in the UK in both standard and scroll cut versions.

stuartjgraham · 5 Jul 2008

I have recently fitted out boxed shelving in a utility room using Conti Board and 'tested' various cutting methods before starting (Jig saw, Hand Saw, Circular Saw, Reciprocating Saw)

The best and cleanest cut was given by a B&D Scorpion saw (reciprocating saw) using the normal blade and cutting at an angle of around 30 degrees. Around 25 cuts were made without excessive splintering.

chairmanofthebored · 9 May 2010

You could try scribing the underside along the length of the cut prior to sawing (I use one blade of a broken pair of cheap stainless steel scissors for this purpose) With the right saw blade, a near perfect, clean cut can be made in thiis way without creating a ragged edge - Chairman of the Bored

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Cutting Contiboard

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