Install appliances

Hi,

I currently have a 2.5mm2 cable coming from the consumer unit on a 30amp fuse, and into the kitchen.
It currently leads to a single socket (there is only one socket so obviously it is not on a ring).

Into this socket, the oven, extractor, and hob-ignition are plugged in with a 13amp plug each.

I am now installing a new kitchen and naturally want to have everything wired in as they should be.
I am planning the electrics before the electrician comes as I want to start putting the kitchen cupboards up whilst I wait for him, and want to be sure he won't interupt them later.

Here is a proposed diagram of how I think the wires will look.
I have a feeling it is probably all wrong as I am not qualified in this at all - but that is why I am here to ask these questions.



Any suggestions?

Firstly you will need to down rate the fuse to 16 or 20 amp, or change the 2.5mm cable for 4mm then the 30amp fuse can be used.

If the cable enters the kitchen in the way you have shown, it is outside the permitted zones, so will need to be 50mm (minimum) deep or in earthed metal conduit.

why not spec the new cct as a ring?

It may be prefrable to put the oven on its own circuit, certaily you may want to look at taking an FCU off the ring as this equipment Takes a lot of current

I will have to use metal conduit as the wire is barely under the surface of the plaster.

The circuit shown does not have the general powerpoints on.
Those are attached to a 20 amp ring which also comes into the kitchen.

So I figure since the 30amp circuit for the oven has more than emough amps it should also take the hob and extractor.

Does it seem unusual to only have 20amps for the general powerpoints? bearing in mind the things I have attached? :fridge-freezer, washing machine, dishwasher, kettle, microwave, blender, lawnmower...?

So is it OK to have the hob and oven go into the same terminal outlet? Will there need to be a junction box under the plaster to split the cable between extractor and oven/hob?

No, you cannot have the hob ignition and oven connected into a one terminal,
the hob ignition should be fused down to 3amps (gas appliance).

You should never ever ever burry a joint box in plaster in a wall.

What happens if a connection fails?

Thanks for your help!

Here is a VERY simple way of doing the same thing (taking into consideration your suggestions):




- The hob gets its own 3amp fuse
- No hidden junctions in cable (except the accessable ones to lengthen the oven/hob cable)
- Very simple work
- cables are hidden behind cupboards

Only problem I can see is that it is disputable whether the switches are easily accessable.
They are certainly not hidden, but they are too high to reach without a stool.

If I got a qualified electrician to wire this layout, would it pass the standards?

Thanks

You can't rely on the fuses you have used in the plug tops! Supposing you go away and someone minds your house (or you sell it!!) and someone uprates the fuses to 13 amps in each one. It could be possible to draw more than 27 amps through that original 2.5mm cable (especially in a fault situation!) , and considering your consumer unit has a 30 amp fuse, then the cable would not have (and as it currently is) does not have adequate protection.

I'd definitely say you MUST change the fuse in the consumer unit to a 20 amp one , and then with regards to the circuit, loop off the original socket down to some more sockets (one by one - not all from the same point ) , thus creating a new radial circuit. It would be advisable to add fcu's before sockets to supply the oven and hob as once the oven is fitted in, you have no means of accessing the rear of it for isolation (fire hazard etc).

Everybody ok with this ?? - Oh by the way - its also very notifiable!!