No HW after draining CH system etc to replace rad valve

I see you have reigned in your horse ChrisR..maybe next time you will take the time out to investigate the post instead of Charging in like Sir Lancelot, Mr. Knowall...I`ll leave the rest to you & Gasman who didn`t even know that the guy was getting water...but cold.....Adios..
 
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I did know the guy was getting water but cold but when the other guy said differant I thought I read it wrong . What your problem mate we are only trying to help
 
How can it be an airlock when he is getting water from the tap you moron..
 
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He has an airlock in the coil of his cylinder which is connected to hi central heating. I won't go down to your level but...oh go on then moron!!
 
No need for the anile attitude Bamber. He said the HW exit pipe from the cylinder "sounded empty" and
"XXX NO HOT WATER FROM TAPS WHATSOEVER, ONLY COLD XXX"
which is ambiguous. Only cold taps...? He did not say he had cold water coming from the hot taps. Gasmanuk was also unsure.

I do not "know it all", I have no special knowledge.
I'm sure we all know all about how to solve this one but the problem persists after several answers, from you and others.

It will be at the valve, check the Hot water pipe as far away as you can, even better if you can get under the floorboard.
Click to expand...

Is not a very helpful answer. The diverter valve might be stuck but draining a system doesn't usually do that, and removing the head from the valve to have a looksee is surely more sensible than taking up floorboards?

BarnsleyJohn put the HW on to heat , with the cylinder stat turned up, and the CH off. Does the lever on the end of the valve move without resistance(stuck uopen)? Or are you pushing against a spring when you move it?

COuld be other things wrong, like pump is stuck, or needs bleeding(remove central knob/screw, twist knob or insert screwdriver and twist)
 
Pardon me.....but wasn`t it you who came in all guns blazing, sweeping aside all before you to solve the problem in a swift turn of your noble & Mighty hand ,only to find .....you were WRONG...Don`t try & make me the Baddie...You were totally...OUT OF LINE....but not big enough to apologise..
 
I may have misunderstood due to the ambiguity oif the thread but I didn't start insulting. When Bamber had been using the forum for more than 5 minutes he'll realise how hard it is to see what's going on from a poster's decription. He probably won't be here long anyway.
If he wants an apology for my suggesting his guess on the interpretation of the description of the situation might not have been what was intended to be conveyed - I apologise.
I did use a question mark to ask about what was going on. He didn't check, he wanted floorboards up.

Me out of line for what? Using "Seems" followed by "?" is
sweeping aside all before you to solve the problem in a swift turn of your noble & Mighty hand
Click to expand...
?
Oh grow up.
 
please calm down guys i am only trying to get your help!

- the diverter valve (honeywell sundial y plan) is on 'auto', there is a little slider on the side which if on manual would move along but doesn't alter anything as auto is selected
here is a picture with cover off... http://server5.ihostphotos.com/show.php?id=148925
the slider i mentioned is on the right .
and cover on...
http://server5.ihostphotos.com/show.php?id=148927

- is this an exit pipe? should this pipe be hot or cold? it's hollow sounding when flicked
http://server5.ihostphotos.com/show.php?id=148926

I opened this valve shown on the left hand side of the picture...
http://server5.ihostphotos.com/show.php?id=148928
... and a bit of coughing and spluttering came out and i kept turning the hw & ch on + off at the wall. i caught the water and it was a grubby looking colour. anyhow i've now got a small amount of warm water coming out of the tap.
have i cured the problem? should i leave it a while with hw turned on and check in a while?
if that was the problem, will it happen again?
if the problem is sorted i'd like to thank you 3 guys bamber gaspipe, chrisR and gasmanuk. plus you made me laugh with your bickering :LOL:
 
it sounds like an air lock like i said but there is a pipe underneath that one that you labeled cold if your coil is now working(and your timer switched to hotwater) then that pipe should be warm as it is your coil return


let me know
 
Yes it sounds fine.

An apology from bamber would be great.....As that is what I said at the start and he came back calling me a moron.....

Thanks for your input ChrisR
 
D

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