Outside Flood light

Rizlaman78 · Posted: Mon Oct 09, 2006 9:10 am Post Subject: Outside Flood light

Hya dudes,

I'd like to install an outside 300w flood light on my new house. I\\\'m curently wondering if I should run the power from a ring main or internal lighting circut.

Would I need to add a fuse spur and switch box in both cases?

I've got a 300w flood light and some 1.5mm twin & earth and I\\\'ve bought and dry lining box(you know one that sinks into the wall) and a switch fused spur 13Amp. and a 20Amp junction box.

So Have I got the right gear? and which way is usually best these days ring main or lighting circut?

DESL · Posted: Mon Oct 09, 2006 9:24 am Post Subject:

It can be done either way

A lot depends on where the nearest circuit is to connect to.

Probably better to take off from lighting circuit as the ring main will/should be protected by RCD and if it trips you'll have no flood light.

No problem using a FCU off lighting cicuit as long as you use a 3Amp fuse in it not 13Amp and to be honest it will be easier to wire in.

industryspark · Posted: Mon Oct 09, 2006 5:53 pm Post Subject:

yep, go with the lighting circuit if possible, it'l be much easier to terminate and cram the wires in your fcu.

nice to see this being done properly for a change, seen loads with a flex from the light with a plug on that plugs into a socket inside the house, ok but ugly!

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Rizlaman78 · Posted: Mon Oct 09, 2006 7:20 pm Post Subject:

Cheers Dudes,

Looks like I'll be wiring up to lighting circut in the loft and then run it down to switch and out to light.

Whats the story with this artic flex stuff would I need to use some between the junction box and outside light?

And do you think I'll have part P iusses later.

securespark · Posted: Mon Oct 09, 2006 7:57 pm Post Subject:

industryspark wrote:

yep, go with the lighting circuit if possible, it'l be much easier to terminate and cram the wires in your fcu.

But what about the load? And what if the 300W lamp is changed for a 500?

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industryspark · Posted: Mon Oct 09, 2006 8:11 pm Post Subject:

Fair point secure spark, could be an issue.

300 watt is 1.25A so he should still have enough to play with even if he's got a lot of lights on!

unless he lives in a big house that is!

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Rizlaman78 · Posted: Mon Oct 09, 2006 8:29 pm Post Subject:

industryspark wrote:

Fair point secure spark, could be an issue.

300 watt is 1.25A so he should still have enough to play with even if he's got a lot of lights on!

unless he lives in a big house that is!

A big house.....Dude I said it's a new house and these's days they build them small.

Anyway thanx man.

Erm what do you mean by secrure spark?

I figure that I'll take the power from the up stairs lighting ring (cos there's only about 5 lighting points up there and so I'll have more load to spare. I think

Rizlaman78 · Posted: Mon Oct 09, 2006 9:00 pm Post Subject: The load

MMMM Dudes,

I'just done some math and on this 300watt light is 1.25 Amps ok and I've 5x60 watt bulbs which gives me a total of 2.5 Amps.

So If I use 3 Amp fuse in the FCU it'll work yes OK, but If I change any lights later upwards in wattage then what will happen? Will the 3 amp fuse blow or will MCB cut out on CU. I think the MCB is rated at 6 amps, so that ok and should'nt trip out.

I have children so the lights up stairs are likely to be almost all on a some point.

industryspark · Posted: Mon Oct 09, 2006 9:18 pm Post Subject:

you will have a 6A mcb in the CU more than likely. this means the entire lighting circuit on this mcb(miniture circuit breaker) can take 6A before it trips.

if 1.25A is used up by your outside light you have over 4 and a half amps left for other fittings on the circuit.

a 60 watt bulb will use roughly 0.25A so you can see that you have enough for a few of these. overloading the circuit shouldnt ever really be a problem ( unless you add more outside lights)

the 3A fcu switch fuse protects only the outside light (or will when irs installed)

__________________
remember......a little bit of knowledge is often more dangerous than no knowledge at all!

Rizlaman78 · Posted: Mon Oct 09, 2006 9:36 pm Post Subject:

industryspark wrote:

you will have a 6A mcb in the CU more than likely. this means the entire lighting circuit on this mcb(miniture circuit breaker) can take 6A before it trips.

if 1.25A is used up by your outside light you have over 4 and a half amps left for other fittings on the circuit.

a 60 watt bulb will use roughly 0.25A so you can see that you have enough for a few of these. overloading the circuit shouldnt ever really be a problem ( unless you add more outside lights)

the 3A fcu switch fuse protects only the outside light (or will when irs installed)

Cheers mate thats right I'm abit rusty on this, I did a 236 part 1 about 10 years ago and I've never really a chance to use the knowledge.

RF Lighting · Posted: Mon Oct 09, 2006 9:39 pm Post Subject:

Rizlaman78 wrote:

I did a 236 part 1 about 10 years ago

So did I.

Where did you go to college?

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downlights

Rizlaman78 · Posted: Mon Oct 09, 2006 9:42 pm Post Subject:

RF Lighting wrote:

Rizlaman78 wrote:

I did a 236 part 1 about 10 years ago

So did I.

Where did you go to college?

Kitson college in Leeds west yorkshire.

RF Lighting · Posted: Mon Oct 09, 2006 11:38 pm Post Subject:

wow me too.

Did you have the joys of lectures from Malcolm Jackson?

I was also taught by Paul Birkby, Andy raynor, Steve Brough and 'the legend' Mark Gallager

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downlights

Rizlaman78 · Posted: Tue Oct 10, 2006 7:37 pm Post Subject:

Dude

Afew of the names ring a bell

Rizlaman78 · Posted: Thu Oct 12, 2006 11:06 pm Post Subject:

HI there again,

I'am gonna have to chase a line down the wall to where I want to put the switch for the light.

But does anyone know the minium and maxium depth, for chasing out a wall for a T&E cable & capping?

As I seem to remember something about it, and it was to a certain depth and it had to have a protective capping over it.

My wall is brick and then cavitiy and then breeze block, and then there's a small gap between the plasterboard and the breeze block.