ferroli optima 701 no ignition for pilot light, buzzing ry 4

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I've noticed a buzzing sound when unit tried to ignite over last few days, noticed c.h. pressure was getting low. By the time I found the manual the pilot light was out too. Have topped up the pressure but now it wont light. Relay 4 (fan) buzzes every time. Dodgy relay? Forked fan? Something entirely different? Would like to know before I call someone in, thanks.
 
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Usually its the board. As it happens I changed one on Friday. Never saw which relay it was per se but I think it was the 'double poled' one on the right. Buzzin like a bee it was. PCBs are very common things to go on these but check your fan resistance is about the 45 Ohm mark.

I dont like the idea of people being cold over christmas so I will divulge more than usual here

These PCB's aint cheap so if you fancy soldering on another relay it might be worth a try.

Sometimes you can get the cover off the relay and clean the terminals with one of them girlie nail filey emery board things. It often used to work on the earlier VMF6.1 PCBs but not always on the VMF7.0 ones that I think yours will have. You could get over Christmas with that trick but dont expect it to last more than 2 or 3 weeks.
 
girlie nail filey emery board things
are a bit thick, might bend everything. Have used very fine sandpaper or "wet and dry" rubbed against itself so it's almost worn out.
 
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The proper stuff used to be called "crocus paper".

DP probably still has the old BT diamond contact cleaning spatula!

Tony
 
Thank you all very much for very useful info. I appreciate you taking the time. Restored all the faith in humanity lost to the consumer feeding frenzy going on at this time.

It is the VMF7 board but will clean up contacts using methods suggested after checking the fan resistance while waiting for a pro to come and do repair and full service.

Sub zero for last four days in Sunny Scotland. Electric fan heaters are creating strange harmonies with computer fans, interesting phenomenon.

Thanks again
 
Hello There,

Please cae anyone help me I have been without heating/water for a week or more now and its really getting me down. I did have a corgi engineer call and he did not do a lot and said its probably requires a new PCB Circuit Board. What is happening is when you turn the water tap on, it should activate the fan and then allow the pilot to be lit, but there just nothing happening. So what I have done is saved the money up over the last week of £150 and purchased a brand new PCB Circuit board, there nothing in these you just pop each connecter off and place them straight on to the new board, however I am gutted I have just done this and put the electric back on, to find it still is not working and I am really fed up now, can anyone help as i have my wife & 3 children to keep warm and want to no urgently if anyone can point me in the right direction, nice & easy instructions please. You can email me on [email protected] Thanks Phillip
 
there nothing in these you just pop each connecter off and place them straight on to the new board
Is it a VMF7 board?
Did you swap the indicator lights across so that you can get a clue of the fault from the fault finder chart?
Theres a link or two that needs putting on X5 or X6 as I recall and theres another on X3.
Did you take a picture before you started? I change PCBs all the time but still take a pic on my phone most of the time in case something goes wrong.
Yesterday I didnt take a pic and when I tried the power on I popped 3 fuses before I realised that I put the connectors back wrongly and that was on a Ravenheat. I play with them a lot! :oops:

Big question> Is there power getting to the fan ?
Yes = There could be a problem with the fan. Check that it spins freely. and then check the resistance?
No = Why isnt the power getting there from the pcb?

Sorry I can't hold your hand on this but I got to go out now and fix boilers for the cold and unwashed
 
Hi There & many thanks for your reply.

Yes what I done was place the connectors straight on to the new board, you cant go wrong really as they are all marked, however there was two brown loop leads/connectors which come loose with the new one, x3 and x5, but only the x3 went back on as same on old board, but there was not an x5 so obviously i never used that one.? Does this mean anything.? But as i say it was not on the old one when taken off.

Thanks
Phillip
 
Yes its the same exact board, and as for the led lights yes I swaped them over from the old board, but as from the start off the old board there has not been any led lights lighting up and this is still the same now on the new one.
 
On X 5 make sure the numbers line up from left to right 1 - 9. There was something stuck in my mind about X5. I think it could have been that there was a 10 connector plug and only 9 pins used.
If your LEDS arent lighting up then go back to start checking fuses and power supply. LED 1 at least should light!
 
Hi There,

I have checked the mains supplying to the pcb, and have tried this now with a new fuse fitted, with it all open so i can watch what is happening. That said when i put the power on I have noticed some of the led lights light up but then within a few secs it keeps blowing the fuse, tried this a few times now with new fuses & dont no if I have done anymore damage now. Please help if you can as this is driving me crazy now. Many thanks for your help so far you are very kind.

Thanks Phillip
 
Fuses pop because there is a direct short circuit. Live getting to neutral or earth.

Most likely places are
1 Fan
2 Pump
3 Gas valve
4 wiring damaged:- Burnt, chafed , chopped, melted together, Melted on a hot part of the boiler, plug fitted wrongly to the pcb
5 Water on electrics

Although theres lots of posibilities my gut instinct here assuming you have wired the pcb correctly is that the fault is with your fan.
Does it spin freely?
Disconnect the wires to it [tape them up for safety] and see if the fuse still pops when you turn the power on.
Check the wires to it. Sometimes they get melted to the casing.
 
Hi There,

Just for you to no the fan when you push it to spin it does still spin around free with no problems, also there is 3 wires that go to it which were on seperate spade connectors and were just a bit dirty which i pulled off and cleaned up & re-fitted back on.

Thank You

Phillip
 
Hi Again,

I have had a reply from another forum like this and another kind person like yourself, has said if the fuse keeps blowing is most likely to be the central heating pump that requires changing, what do you think.? Well he said to disconect the pump lead and if the led`s come on & the fuse dont blow this is most likely your problem and needs to be changed. Well that said I have done this & guess what the led`s come on for approx 10 secs and then go off, and the fuse do not blow. What do you think.? Your thoughts please regarding same.? Would he be correct about being the pump or is it possibly the fan gone.?

Thank you
Phillip
 

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