drilling through metal lintel

[matthew34]

I'm trying to fit a curtain track above a window but cannot drill through the lintel.

I've read some contradictory posts on this forum as to whether it's actually possible to drill through a metal lintel.

Some say it is, but only with the correct drill bit, some say that if its an RSJ then you may as well give up. Others say that you can actually use a self drilling screw that will anchor to the metal of an RSJ (really?).

I'm confused!

I've used a brand new titanium drill bit with no luck and am just about to fit a wooden baton using a combination of screws (where i can get them in at the edges) ) No More Nails, and a Hilti gun.

HOWEVER if anybody can persuade me to try another approach to fixing directly into the lintel then I'm listening.

Cheers
Matt

[^woody^]

A window opening is unlikely to have a RSJ above it.

Lintels are manufactured from strong hard steel and so you need a new, sharp, good quality bit and use moderate pressure and a medium speed on the drill. Too high a speed and the tip will heat up and soften.

Is your bit from a £2.99 set of 50 from china or a £9.99 single one from an established manufacturer? It will make a difference.

If the lintel is a catnic (you may never know) then the back will be perforated and the the bit may slip into a perforation so the hole may not be eaxactly where you want it.

A cavity fixing or long expansive plug or a window anchor type plug (as opposed to frame fixing type) will be best

[matthew34]

Thanks

I appreciate it probably isn't an RSJ but its bloody hard.

the drill bit cost about £4 from B&Q - as it was titanium I assumed it would do the trick. Unfortuantely it makes absolutely no impact on the metal.

Would you recommed spending more money on a "better" drill bit? Perhaps I need a more powerful drill?

M

[Nige F]

HSS drill bit .high speed steel...engineering/metalworking tool

[keifster]

I hate drilling in to lintels. Inevitably, I have to apply a bit more force and the chuck ends up sinking in to the plaster.

Yes, in my experience it is possible but proceed with care!

[Richard C]

You bought the wrong drill bit! Nige F has it, you need a HSS (high speed steel) drill bit which is designed to cut metal (but not masonry); masonry drill bits are tipped but won't touch steel – wrong cutting angles!

Drill through the concrete/plaster until you hit the lintel, change the bit to HSS, drill through the steel. Change back to the masonry bit if more concrete present or you will just knacker the HSS drill bit! You don’t have to spend a fortune, as long as the bit is HSS, it’s OK. It’s probably a better bet to buy a set rather than single bits, just make sure the set contains the size you want.

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Richard C

[David Lewis]

Sorry for resurecting an old post but I had the same problem as Matthew.

So I typed Drilling In Lintel into google and found this thread.

Followed the advice and bought some good HSS drill bits and they worked like a dream.

So a big thank you. isnt the internet great.

[Richard C]

David Lewis wrote:

Sorry for resurecting an old post but I had the same problem as Matthew. So I typed Drilling In Lintel into google and found this thread. Followed the advice and bought some good HSS drill bits and they worked like a dream. So a big thank you. isnt the internet great.

Nice to get some thanks from someone once in a while, even if it is from an unexpected source

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Richard C

[Ossy]

Well just for anybody else googling this, you can get Teks screws which will self tap into the lintel. If memory serves they can be bought from Expamet. I've never used them myself, but have specified them to others and never received any complaints.

[NS215]

http://www.tool-net.co.uk/s-1355/fasteners/tek-screws-self-drilling/buildex-teks-screws-general-components-to-steel.html

these will screw through a lintel or an rsj to get a fixing

[neilsumner]

anyone tried these Bosch multipurpose bits before?
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/70820/Drill-Bits/Masonry-Drill-Bits/Multi-Purpose-Drill-Bits/Bosch-Multipurpose-Drill-Bit-4-x-75mm#


Do they work? Or are they bad at all jobs.

-Neil

[Tortoise]

Sorry to re-open this thread yet again.

I too am trying to fit a blind above a window. Behind the first layer of plaster is metal - I presume a metal lintel.

Having read this thread, I tried using a small good quality HSS bit as a pilot for an intended larger bit.

But I'm making virtually no progress into the metal - perhaps a mm or so after a lot of effort.

Any ideas why I should be having such trouble? Can one get specailist bits which would make lighter work of this?

Thanks for any advice.

[cmother1]

Here's the poor man's version of the Tek. I've used this trick to attach to a 2.5mm thick box lintel. Use dry walling screws with a pilot hole 0.5mm smaller than the screw size. They're really tough and the threads are so sharp that they easily cut into mild steel. Miles better than self-tappers.
Do a trial on a scrap piece of metal first and lubricate with WD40.
Here's one I did as a demo. 3mm pilot drill. The red wire has 10Kg of scrap lead attached to it.

Don't know how thick your lintel is, but you might be able to get away with a smaller pilot hole with these screws.

[Tortoise]

Thanks for the reply.

I think you're suggesting a 3mm pilot hole before using the suggested dry walling screws. But I'm not having much luck drilling the pilot hole! I've broken one bit and made little progress with a second. And they were/are good quality HSS bits in theory.

So the question is how do I make better progress drilling that pilot hole?

[cmother1]

Tortoise - I've never come across a steel lintel that hard. An HSS bit should be able to make easy work even of a RSJ. Catnic and box lintels are tinfoil by comparison. I've drilled loads of holes in them, not even with a sharp bit always.
Are you absolutely sure you're hitting metal? Any chance it could be aggregate in a concrete lintel?