rads hot when putting hot water on via programmer

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8 Apr 2007
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Glasgow
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hi folks
when i put my hot water on via programmer most of the rads seem to get very hot?
changed the programmer,but still same problem but have noticed not all of them are hot?
thanks in advance for any help or info
boiler ideal classic ff330
 
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has done it for a few months, but got worse as time has gone on
i used to be able to switch the heating of via programmer and this worked for a while, but it does it all the time now wheather heating on or off
thanks
 
If it's always done it, you have no valves controlling the heating and hot water.

If it's a new fault, you might have a valve stuck open on the central heating circuit allowing the boiler to heat that circuit instead of blocking it.

It's not heating all the radiators in either case because the programmer isn't pumping the water (as it shouldn't).
 
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Motorised valve is stuck or it`s seating is worn and allowing heated water intended for HW circuit to pass and heat rads
 
thanks for the info
is the valve job something i could do,i have basic plumbing skills
or would i have to call in an expert?
 
Well, they're fairly simple things.
You'll need to drain down your system to below the valve level then it's just fitted in via compression connectors on either side.

It could be that the motor has gone so you might be able to replace the motor without getting to the wet stuff. B&Q etc do replacement universal motors.

To diagnose
Detach the motor to see if it still works and try the valve by hand to see if it's stiff/jamming/broken.
 
hi buzzark

thanks for the information
the valve that is fitted is a drayton ma1 which according to there website is like a plug and play?
there is a locking button and another on the side,do you know if i remove this with the buttons, do i still need to drain the system?
my hunch is not, but double checking
i take it the motor is housed inside the casing when it comes off?
thanks
 
Sorry, I don't know the answer to that one.
I'm familiar with their purpose and how they work but I'm not a plumber/heating engineer by trade so haven't had much practical experience.

If it's got isolator valves on each side then I expect you can replace without having to drain down the system, just the bit that's in the valve.
 
hi

all sorted, removed top housing of valve, as i suspected it can be removed without draining system

turns out one of the lugs inside that holds one of the springs had broken off, thus holding the valve open !!!

glued it back in place,until i can pick one up, and all seems to be going well

many thanks for pointing me in the right direction

cheers
dougie
glasgow
 

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