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broken Triton hose - help !

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philmch

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2007 8:18 pm    Post Subject:
broken Triton hose - help !
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Can anyone help with a broken hose on a Triton T80 ?

The basic problem is that the threaded plastic end of the hose which holds on the head has broken. I've made a temporary repair with gaffer tape.

Ideally, I'd like to replace the hose. The problem is that I can't shift it at the other end. It's jammed fast. I've sprayed WD40 into it and used grippers but no joy. It just twists the plastic bit to which it's attached and I'm scared of snapping it off.

Does anyone have any suggestions short of replacing the whole shebang ? It's at least 10 years old and working ok.
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breezer

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2007 8:25 pm    Post Subject:
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try a descaler at the other end, not wd 40

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ColJack

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2007 8:38 pm    Post Subject:
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yeah try that cilit bang stuff of any limescale removal products..

and shouldn't this be in plumbing?
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stevesey

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2007 8:42 pm    Post Subject:
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Any chance of carefully cutting a diagonal slot in it (with a hacksaw blade), putting a screwdriver in the slot and twisting to expand/break it (if you see what I mean). Better to deliberately butcher the part you are going to replace than break the connector on the shower unit.
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philmch

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2007 8:58 pm    Post Subject:
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Thanks for your help. Sorry for posting this in the wrong place.

I've just squirted in some descaler using the syringe from an inkjet refill kit. I'll leave it overnight and see what happens.

If all else fails, I'll try the hacksaw trick. Shouldn't be too difficult. The outer section looks like aluminium.

Might try pouring hot water over it too. In theory, the metal outer will expand before the plastic inner.

Ta. Phil.
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breezer

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2007 9:12 pm    Post Subject:
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cillit bang, i was thinking more along the lines of a well known kettle descaler that i can't for the life of me remember

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Softus

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 17, 2007 8:44 am    Post Subject:
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You could take the unit apart so that you can remove the flow control valve to get a better grip on it.

To remove it, isolate the unit electrically, put a sheet over the shower waste, remove the cover, remove the two screws holding the flow control valve in place, pick them up off the sheet, loosen the screw at the side of the can, and ease the can forward so that you can remove the valve. Locate the rubber O ring and make sure you don't lose it or damage it.

If you do break the valve then they're available as spares from Triton.
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philmch

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 17, 2007 3:00 pm    Post Subject:
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I got it fixed today. Thanks for all your help.

In the end, the chemical treatments didn't work at all so I did the hacksaw trick. Bought a new hose from B&Q for about £5 and it works fine although it's a bit stiffer than the old one.

Whilst I was on the job I removed all of the fittings and gave everything a damn good clean. The pole was going rusty and I've got it shining like new.

Ta. Phil.
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Softus

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 17, 2007 3:30 pm    Post Subject:
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There's nothing more pleasing than a shining pole.
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Agile

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 17, 2007 11:07 pm    Post Subject:
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I wonder why a moderator moved this into the Electrics when its a pure plumbing problem of water pipes!

As the units 10 years old and they are pretty cheap I would recommend that the supply cable capacity is checked and a new shower bought with ratings within the allowable power rating of the supply/cable.

Tony
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Softus

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 17, 2007 11:37 pm    Post Subject:
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Agile wrote:
I wonder why a moderator moved this into the Electrics when its a pure plumbing problem of water pipes!

philmch wrote:
In the end, the chemical treatments didn't work at all so I did the hacksaw trick.


Nah - it clearly belongs in the Tools forum. icon_wink.gif

Quote:
As the units 10 years old and they are pretty cheap I would recommend that the supply cable capacity is checked and a new shower bought with ratings within the allowable power rating of the supply/cable.

Mm yes - entirely a plumbing subject. icon_rolleyes.gif

Would you recommend checking the circuit protection, and the bonding, and the cable length, and the total load at the CU, Agile?
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