Secondary Glazing - Noise ?

Coniferman · 24 Aug 2007

Confused

Have one room which I would like to make just a little bit quieter - not a particularly noisy area but anyway ...

One window 175 x 116 cm internal dimensions.

Had a quote to supply and fit for £450 !! Supply only over £300. Now I am sure if it worth every penny and they are very professional but not as cheap as I was led to believe.

Anyway then found the diy options in particular linkline ("designed and developed by polycell") Kit would cost £136. Phoned a glazier to check the price of the glass - single glazed 4mm. Comes to about £50. Great! So change from £200 for the diy route.

However the glazier said that it would not make much difference to noise levels. I already have double glazed windows and can allow upto a 6 inch gap.

Is it right that it won't make much difference? I have read web sites saying it will make a significant difference.

Anyone have any experiences/comments.

P.S. I know they are not regarded as the prettiest thing in the world. I am ok with that.

freddiemercurystwin · 24 Aug 2007

Why don't you install another double glazed unit instead, that linkline site looks like a load of cobblers, there's nothing on their website stating what actual reduction in sound you should get whatsoever. Theres not even a photo or diagram. If they were any good I'd expect them to publish BRE test results or similar to match their claims.

Coniferman · 24 Aug 2007

freddymercurystwin said:
Why don't you install another double glazed unit instead

Yes probably the best idea. (I think you mean the whole window inc frame etc.)

Will get around to it in a few years if I am still living here. I just thought for the sake of £200 now just to do the one room that would benefit and had heard/read so many things saying it will make a significant difference but now when it comes down to it, I hear it wont

masona · 24 Aug 2007

Coniferman said:
However the glazier said that it would not make much difference to noise levels. I already have double glazed windows and can allow upto a 6 inch gap.

Is it right that it won't make much difference? I have read web sites saying it will make a significant difference.

I have double glazing and a secondly glazing 150mm away for the external window and it's a lot quiter and warmer as I used to do shiftwork.

big-all · 24 Aug 2007

advantiges of secondary glazing
if your main window is badly fitting will reduce sound and draughts
if your main window is a good fit a perhaps 15 or 20% reduction in heat loss and sounds

disadvantiges the apearence difficult to get fresh air the need to store the panel during the summer and twice as much glass to clean

if your windows are a good fit i would suggest draught excluder and heavy lined curtains will give you greater benefit overall

JohnD · 24 Aug 2007

I understand well-fitted secondary glazing is more effective for sound insulation than sealed double glazing, especially if you use thicker glass.

masona · 25 Aug 2007

My secondary glazing is properly made by the manufacter, like a sliding patio door, and line up with my window jamb so it's not an eyesore, easy to take out as well

Coniferman · 25 Aug 2007

masona said:
My secondary glazing is properly made by the manufacter, like a sliding patio door, and line up with my window jamb so it's not an eyesore, easy to take out as well

Thanks for the replies.

The kit I mentioned is horizontally sliding and the panels can be sized to match the existing jambs.

So you find there is a significant noise difference depending on whether the secondary glazing is open or closed?

masona · 25 Aug 2007

Coniferman said:
So you find there is a significant noise difference depending on whether the secondary glazing is open or closed?

As a test I started my engine lawn mower just outside our bedroom window as it's quite noisy! I shut the double glazed windows, the noise level went down quite a bit but the noise went down even further when the secondary glazing was shut and even better with the heavy duty curtain

Coniferman · 25 Aug 2007

masona said:
As a test I started my engine lawn mower just outside our bedroom

Thanks for that! I'm inclined to give it a go.

Heavy duty curtain sounds interesting too but wouldn't they need to be significantly bigger than the window to be effective otherwise sound would leak around the edge???

big-all · 25 Aug 2007

it would help if the curtains where as big as possible
but remember curtains absorb sound[soft surface dosnt resonate or bounce the sound

the size off the curtain tends to be decided by wether you have a radiator under the window
then you want it short to let the heat into the room and not just warming up the glass

Coniferman · 30 Aug 2007

Well I got the kit and have fitted the frame already - now just need to get the glass and fit the panels.

Slightly confused about the construction of my internal walls. I attached the frame so it was almost flush with the inside of the walls, to maximise the gap. This meant drilling in wallplugs about an inch into the window (is reveal the correct term?) on the left and right sides. I was expecting the wall to be solid here but the drill went in a little more than an inch before finding no resistance as if there is a void?? Is this normal? It was enough for the wallplugs to grip but just curious what kind of walls I have got??

I had assumed I had just brick gap block and plaster to the block? Does this suggest plasterboard or is there just something I don't know about around the window??

P.S. The total wall is about 11 inches, when I had the cavity insulated I was told the cavity was 3 inches. That must mean a thin block????

oldhenry · 31 Aug 2007

I fitted quite a lot of the polycell stuff 12 years ago. I used a wooden sub frame to make an easier fit, it is hidden by curtains mostly, but does not look obtrusive if painted as the window board.
if you line up the sliding joints with the existing window where possible, it looks good. a bargain, and reduces noise dramatically, but leave at least 4" gap, preferably more.
It will fill with insects though, and make sure seals are cut generously.

Coniferman · 31 Aug 2007

Yeah a sub frame would have made it easier - the corners of the window reveal seemed to taper in by a mm or two in the corners. needing a bit of sanding.

Got the glass sitting in my car right now so will finish it off tonight. (or weekend) Hopefully i have all the measurements correct and will avoid any breakages! Joints should be correct and I have just over a 6" gap.

Anyone any ideas what the void was that I drilled into??? I'm sure I don't have plasterboard so expected just plaster on block or do they frame around the internal of the window and plaster over???It was too close to the inside to be the cavity. Drill seemed to go quite a way in without resistance? Would be interesting to know as it may have an affect if I do any other windows and am also just curious?

masona · 31 Aug 2007

Coniferman said:
Slightly confused about the construction of my internal walls.

You may have gone through the cavity wall gap, another way is to use a flat metal bracket with screw holes and screw it to the back of the frame then fix it to the outer wall cavity

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Secondary Glazing - Noise ?

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