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Cutting wood with two passes with Table Saw


 
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richard7761

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 4:56 pm Reply with quote

If the table saw will not cut right through the wood, then I presume you can do another pass to cut what was uncut in the first pass.

So, that means a saw which is advertized to cut up to 35mm thick, can cut a 70mmm thick piece.

What say? Rich.
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big-all

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 5:05 pm Reply with quote

yes and no
you will need to remove the safety equipment [riving knife and guard] making it dangerous

experienced people will do it unofficially as we cannot condone unsafe practices icon_wink.gif

what sort off wood are you talking about[hard wood/soft wood seasoned planed ]
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richard7761

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 5:43 pm Reply with quote

big-all wrote:
yes and no
you will need to remove the safety equipment [riving knife and guard] making it dangerous

experienced people will do it unofficially as we cannot condone unsafe practices icon_wink.gif

what sort off wood are you talking about[hard wood/soft wood seasoned planed ]


It's the kind of wood I that I think you might find as joists or rafters. Sort of common all-garden original wood size 4" (100mm) x 2" (50mm).

I've been looking at an inexpensive Titan SF88N5 200mm Table Saw at Screwfix. That only cuts to 35mm.

I've been using an electric planer to reduce the wood size to around 90mm x 40mm, but cannot get things square. I need a table saw.

So, my wood is now 90mm x 40mm. I'll still not be able to cut 90mm, only about 70mm. But, I could saw the 20mm left uncut in the middle - I guess.

I'm actually trying to square-up this wood. So, when I say saw the 20mm in the middle, I really mean plane.
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big-all

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 6:19 pm Reply with quote

i would not advise you to run any timber thats wet ror warped through a saw with full guards in place never mind without the guards in place
what lengths are you talking about
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gregers

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 9:23 pm Reply with quote

only remove the safty gaurds of any machine for photographic purposes only. icon_wink.gif
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richard7761

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 9:39 pm Reply with quote

big-all wrote:
i would not advise you to run any timber thats wet ror warped through a saw with full guards in place never mind without the guards in place
what lengths are you talking about


5 foot max.
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big-all

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 9:49 pm Reply with quote

gregers wrote:
only remove the safty gaurds of any machine for photographic purposes only. icon_wink.gif

norm has a lot to answer for icon_biggrin.gif icon_biggrin.gif icon_wink.gif
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Jasonb

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 7:27 pm Reply with quote

Quote:

I've been using an electric planer to reduce the wood size to around 90mm x 40mm, but cannot get things square. I need a table saw.


If you are trying to clean up the wood by planing the faces and want to get the edges square then forget a saw and buy a planer/thicknesser.

J[/quote]
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merlin50

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 3:29 pm Reply with quote

if you get a good saw that has the guard on an arm from the side of the table there is no need to remove it or remove the riving knife. the best saws are the old cast iron ones not cheap but will last for ever.

something like this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/saw-bench-240v-Luna-/320855418445?pt=UK_BOI_Building_Materials_Supplies_Carpentry_Woodwork_ET&hash=item4ab479264d
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Dave54

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 4:15 pm Reply with quote

merlin50 wrote:
if you get a good saw that has the guard on an arm from the side of the table there is no need to remove it or remove the riving knife. the best saws are the old cast iron ones not cheap but will last for ever.

something like this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/saw-bench-240v-Luna-/320855418445?pt=UK_BOI_Building_Materials_Supplies_Carpentry_Woodwork_ET&hash=item4ab479264d


That's the type of saw I've got. It's an excellent bit of kit. You'd have to have some work for it though to justify the money (although it's cheap enough there) space and 15A socket etc.

That Titan saw is going to need fixing down for any heavy ripping. Ripping full depth like that isn't a recommended practice anyway, because of the dangers of work piece rejection, and at around 1 HP I doubt if that saw will have the power to do the job properly, particularly with no riving knife, which of course you wouldn't be doing anyway. . .

Apart from any possible safety issues, resawing stuff like that by turning it over rarely gives good results. You often get a step between the two cuts.

I'd find somebody with a suitably sized, and give them a drink to do it for me.
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