Plastering stains on oak (already posted on decorating forum

[Tobiasisno1]

Hi folks, this is a query I posted on the decorating forum but with no joy so read no further if you've seen it there. I know wet plaster causes a black stain on bare oak and there's a product which can be used to prevent this. Does anyone know what it's called or who makes it?

Thanks
Keith

 

[roughcaster]

I can't help you with this one, but it's always advisable to at least cover up, or varnish any bare wood first, if there's plastering on the go.

 

[Micilin]

Try (sample first) vegetable oil on the oak to make it all the same colour if one bit is stained.

As said above, timber which is not to be painted MUST be sealed up before plastering around it. Vanrish, oil, sealer etc. I don't know if there is a specific product, but I would think it is just a case of giving it a coat or two of whatever finishing you want prior to plastering

As an aside, when I make furniture from English Oak, I use Orange Oil to nourish the wood.

 

[roughcaster]

Try (sample first) vegetable oil on the oak to make it all the same colour if one bit is stained.

As said above, timber which is not to be painted MUST be sealed up before plastering around it. Vanrish, oil, sealer etc. I don't know if there is a specific product, but I would think it is just a case of giving it a coat or two of whatever finishing you want prior to plastering

As an aside, when I make furniture from English Oak, I use Orange Oil to nourish the wood

.

Very interesting Micilin. Didn't know you did that. I used to watch Norm Abraham on TV,, the New Yankee Workshop,, it was great to watch him make furniture from pieces wood,,, oak, beech. etc. He finished his with different types of oil too,,, (Crude, North Sea Oil, Saudi Arabian Oil), no,, i'm only kidding, ,,,
but he really did get some beautiful finishes on the furniture using oil,,, "teak oil" in particular, if i remember correctly.

 

[marshman]

Does anyone know what it's called
Thanks
Keith

Duct tape, mask up your oak with this so your finish plaster lapps over the edge of the duct tape, next day go round the plaster line edge
with a Stanley knife and cut through the duct tape, peel off the duct tape to leave a nice clean line.

 

[Tobiasisno1]

Thanks for the replies folks-not sure what I'll do. There definitely used to be something on the market for this but perhaps it's no longer available. One of the places I wanted it for is for an oak beam above a woodburning stove so whatever finish I apply will have to withstand a fair amount of heat. Can you recommend anything or indeed is there anything I shouldn't use?

Keith

 

[Micilin]

Thanks for the replies folks-not sure what I'll do. There definitely used to be something on the market for this but perhaps it's no longer available. One of the places I wanted it for is for an oak beam above a woodburning stove so whatever finish I apply will have to withstand a fair amount of heat. Can you recommend anything or indeed is there anything I shouldn't use?

Keith

Oak is good for heat ( apparently better than a steel rsj in a housefire).


You might be better asking in the other forums for the type of laquer/oil to use . What ever you go with, from a plasterers point of view make sure you give it a couple of coats before plastering top avoid teh staining. You can then tape it up.

Is the oak finishes or rough/distressed/natural?

I have a rough piece of oak for a mantelpiece over a real fire (coal/wood/peat) and it has never suffered from the heat (orange oil only) but it is a bit away from the direct heat.

If your oak is a machined, sanded piece it won't look so good scorched etc, but a natural piece will not look out of place with a bit of wear and tear on it IMHO -depends on the look you are going for.

(That's only because I look a bit rough with wear and tear myself)

 

[joe-90]

A watered down acrylic satin is best for protecting surfaces. It's invisible and yet stops the staining.

 

[Micilin]

A watered down acrylic satin is best for protecting surfaces. It's invisible and yet stops the staining.

Problem solved!

 

[Tobiasisno1]

A watered down acrylic satin is best for protecting surfaces. It's invisible and yet stops the staining.

Is that a varnish? Presumably I'd apply it after applying the coloured dye. Is the watering down to give better penetration and for finish I presume I'd give it another coat undiluted.

Keith

 

[Tobiasisno1]

Thanks Micilin-the beam will be sanded but the only one distressed was me carrying it! I'm not so much worried about heat affecting the wood itself as affecting whatever finish I apply-I imagine some are more heat resistant than others.

Keith

 

[joe-90]

A watered down acrylic satin is best for protecting surfaces. It's invisible and yet stops the staining.

Is that a varnish? Presumably I'd apply it after applying the coloured dye. Is the watering down to give better penetration and for finish I presume I'd give it another coat undiluted.

Keith

Yes it's just an everyday varnish. Personally I rarely apply anything undiluted. It leaves you prone to brush marks. Much better with thinner coats. I don't know if I'd stain it though.

 

[Tobiasisno1]

OK Joe-90, thanks for that and to everyone else who replied.

Keith