Can I use a light switch as a cut off for a spur?

[ifstatement]

First of all I apologise for it seeming like I signed up just for this post. I have just got my first place and I hope to make use of DIY advice and can hopefully give some of my own as I learn.

Currently I want a new socket. I'm going to create a spur from the ring with a junction box and I want to have a switch which cuts off power to the socket.

For aesthetic purposes I'd like to replace my light switch plate with a double switch plate and use the new switch as the cut off switch.

I want to know if this is safe/ok/proper though as safety is more important than aesthetics after all and I can make do with an FCU switch instead.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Firstly any joints in the cable must be either easily accessible or mechanically sound. So standard junction box would need to be accessible.
You can install a 13A switched fused connection unit to the ring final circuit and install a socket after that.
If you intend to use a light switch as an isolator for a socket, it would need to be correctly rated to carry the current, most light switches a rated at 10A where a socket outlet from a 13A spur would need to be protected against 13A.
I would just stick to having a 13A Switched FCU do away with both junction box and extra switch.
Way does this need to be isolated?

 

[GaryMo]

It's possible to change your current switch plate to a grid system with two modules. One would replace your current switch, either 6A or 10A and the other would be a 20A double pole switch to isolate your socket.
A low level switched fused spur would make things easier though.

 

[ifstatement]

Thanks for answering.

The junction box is going in the loft void so will be accessible.

To be honest I'm not to keen on the look of modular plates so it would probably defeat the object.

Do you think modifying say one of the switches from this with the parts from a 13A light switch would be doable?

 

[ban-all-sheds]

First of all I apologise for it seeming like I signed up just for this post. I have just got my first place and I hope to make use of DIY advice and can hopefully give some of my own as I learn.

No point signing up if you never make your first post.

I want to have a switch which cuts off power to the socket.

Why?

I want to know if this is safe/ok/proper

No, it's not. Light switches are not rated for the current a socket can draw.

If you really, really must have a switch as you describe you'll need a 2-module grid switch with at least one of the modules a 20A one.

(Other makes of grids and other suppliers are available)

You should also document the need to isolate more than one circuit before opening the switch up.

though as safety is more important than aesthetics after all and I can make do with an FCU switch instead.

That would probably be best.

You should read this too: //www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:walls

 

[GaryMo]

Nothing at all wronf with grid systems like this:

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MKK3632.html

 

[ifstatement]

I want to have a switch which cuts off power to the socket.

Why?

I have installed ceiling speakers and I am putting a socket in the loft for the amplifier to power them. Rather than climbing up there to turn it off and on I thought I could just have a switch which does that for me.

Nothing at all wronf with grid systems like this:

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MKK3632.html[/QUOTE]

No, that looks pretty good actually. For some reason I had modular plates down as ugly but that would actually fit in quite well. Thanks.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Do you think modifying say one of the switches from this with the parts from a 13A light switch would be doable?

1) No.

2) There's no such thing as a 13A light switch.

3) Even if there were, and you could somehow remove one of the switches and put in another one you're barking mad if you think that they would match and look better than, for example, one of these with 2 modules that look the same:

 

[ifstatement]

2) There's no such thing as a 13A light switch.[/url]

Is this not one? Or is it titled wrong?

Anyhow I do like the grid plate yourself and GaryMo have pointed me towards.

Going to order the parts now.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

It's wrong, it's a 10A switch.

But there is this - I forgot MK did these - sorry.

http://www.mkelectric.com/en-gb/Products/WD/logicplus/plateswitches/20amp/Pages/K4872D2WHI.aspx

 

[ifstatement]

Ok since I'm going to order that I thought i may aswell get the wire at the same time.
Is it ok to use 2.5mm flex for the spur?

 

[ban-all-sheds]

No - use twin & earth.

 

[ifstatement]

OK so you have to sheath the earth with that correct? Is it just the bare wire at the end of the cable you need to sheath or the whole length of it?

 

[GaryMo]

Place green/yellow sleeving on the exposed copper conductor at the termination, the rest will be covered by the outer grey sheath.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I have just got my first place and I hope to make use of DIY advice.

• http://www.google.co.uk/search?q=electrical+circuits+101
  
  
• http://kevinboone.net/electricity.html
  
  
• http://web.archive.org/web/20080213151445/http://www.kevinboone.com/domesticinstallations.html
  
  
• //www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:books
  
  
• //www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics