Worcester Heatslave 20/25 Oil Comb (no heating)

[Aqueousosprey]

Hi

I am looking for some help please, 20/25 oil combi, no heating however hot water seems to work fine.
I don't really know a lot about combi boilers so please be gentle!

Cheers

 

[Burnerman]

More than likely an issue with the good old diverter valve, I imagine.....this thing diverts hot water from the boiler either to the radiators or into the heatslave tank, depending on which is calling for heat.
Failure of this valve (or likely the motor on the top which turns it) has called it a day.
John

 

[Aqueousosprey]

More than likely an issue with the good old diverter valve, I imagine.....this thing diverts hot water from the boiler either to the radiators or into the heatslave tank, depending on which is calling for heat.
Failure of this valve (or likely the motor on the top which turns it) has called it a day.
John

Thanks John for your quick reply

There was a clicking noise from that motor if we are talking about the same thing? ( above the pump with a three way pipe thing under it)
Can this be purchased on its own or do I need to replace whole unit, pipe also.
Rough Price?

 

[Burnerman]

Yep, thats the thing....I believe the correct complete valve is the Honeywell V4044 series which happens to be very expensive.
The clicking noise will be from the motor pinion not engaging with the valve gear quadrant.
However, you can fit just the motor, which is available from Plumbcenter as well as other outlets, or the valve head itself - which is probably easiest to fit.
You'll need to join the wires though as I think the Heatslave unit plugs into its own PCB.
So you know what you are looking at, Toolstation 68222 for the motor, and 28639 for the 3 port head.
John

 

[Aqueousosprey]

Yep, thats the thing....I believe the correct complete valve is the Honeywell V4044 series which happens to be very expensive.
The clicking noise will be from the motor pinion not engaging with the valve gear quadrant.
However, you can fit just the motor, which is available from Plumbcenter as well as other outlets, or the valve head itself - which is probably easiest to fit.
You'll need to join the wires though as I think the Heatslave unit plugs into its own PCB.
So you know what you are looking at, Toolstation 68222 for the motor, and 28639 for the 3 port head.
John

John , you ARE the man!

So if I buy a 3 port head (28639) all I need to do is unbolt the original units two screws and replace it with (28639)! Correct?
Is there a way of double checking that this is defiantly a faulty unit before buying one ? I have taken off the motor bit (head) and under it is a valve which I can turn with long nose pliers (not seized as it turns fairly easy but does not turn very far?) however even if I manually turn the valve I don't seem to still get any heating???

 

[Burnerman]

Scratching the memory cell
The new 3 port head is held on by two screws, and you lock the old valve in the manual position before you remove it, and do the same before offering up the replacement - in this way, the valve head mates with the drive dog.
On the heatslave unit, the main water pump has to be running to allow heat to the rads or the heatslave tank, and I think this is done by the microswitch inside the valve head....so maybe thats why there still isn't any radiator heat.
If you can wait a while, lets see what the others say......most have forgotten more than I'll ever know
John

 

[Aqueousosprey]

Scratching the memory cell
The new 3 port head is held on by two screws, and you lock the old valve in the manual position before you remove it, and do the same before offering up the replacement - in this way, the valve head mates with the drive dog.
On the heatslave unit, the main water pump has to be running to allow heat to the rads or the heatslave tank, and I think this is done by the microswitch inside the valve head....so maybe thats why there still isn't any radiator heat.
If you can wait a while, lets see what the others say......most have forgotten more than I'll ever know
John

Oops I never locked the old valve before taking it off! Sh*t

 

[oilboffin]

Make sure it's not the boulter valve and by the way check out your wall stat if it's not calling for heat valve won't move

 

[Aqueousosprey]

Make sure it's not the boulter valve and by the way check out your wall stat if it's not calling for heat valve won't move

Thanks for reply

Not sure what the boulder valve is but will investigate !

I do not have a wall stat in the house.

If the hot water is working does that mean that the circulation pump is working ok or does the circulation pump only work the heating side of things?

 

[Aqueousosprey]

If the hot water is working does that mean that the circulation pump is working ok or does the circulation pump only work the heating side of things?

Anybody??

 

[onecog]

Yes.

 

[Aqueousosprey]

Yes.

Yes to which?

 

[onecog]

The pump needs to be working for hot water as it pumps primary water to the heat exchanger.

 

[Burnerman]

Hell, how I wish someone else would come along.....
Can you tell if your valve is a Honeywell vc 4613 or the v 4044?
I have a feeling in my water that this boiler had the former valve, which is a piston movement with a cartridge, rather than a rotary one.....
Is it possible to post a pic of it?
John
PS I don't know what a Boulter valve is
J

 

[Aqueousosprey]

Hell, how I wish someone else would come along.....
Can you tell if your valve is a Honeywell vc 4613 or the v 4044?
I have a feeling in my water that this boiler had the former valve, which is a piston movement with a cartridge, rather than a rotary one.....
Is it possible to post a pic of it?
John
PS I don't know what a Boulter valve is
J

John the valve is a ( 4044) I bought a 28639 from tool station however unsure of wiring at moment as said brown is live however new valve does not have a brown!