25mm cable ???

winston1";p="3152620 said:
So what is the protocol? It's not good to have dimmers now???? Like 99% of the population have in their lounges/bedrooms/kitchens ... suddenly it's not right here ?

I don't think it is anywhere 99%, not even 50%.

But I said
:Dimmers in kitchen, bathroom, toilet, and loft not a good idea. Are you really having dimmers in every room?
In the kitchen you need to see what you are doing, likewise in the other rooms I mentioned which did not include the lounge or bedroom.

Does it actually matter how many people have spot lights in their houses? And the correct definition of a light bulb... Chaps this is what I want, and most of the houses I've been into have nice spotlights in all rooms, there is always axillary reading light for tables and desks and the point of a dimmer is to create ambiance. It also saves energy as I can have them on low.. And what's funny is some of you guys saying the lighting is insufficient are wrong, I've spotlights in every room here so far and I very seldom have them on full. It creates a more comfortable atmosphere. I guess in the age of some of you guys, pre world war you'd be lucky to have a working light in the house, things have come some distance since then.

And with regards the cost, I'd defy anyone here to get that list for under £600 (including VAT), whoever said £250 materials to rewire the whole house is clearly thinking of one standard sh1tty pendant in each room emitting dungeon light
 
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And with regards the cost, I'd defy anyone here to get that list for under £600 (including VAT)

Not even that hard, especially if you have an account with a proper supplier.

I'm missing, uh.. a cheap distribution amp and an inappropriate aerial, and am at about £590 with no discount.

It also saves energy as I can have them on low..

Saves less energy than more appropriate lighting systems, and burns through halogen lamps because they are not suitable for dimming.
 
I asked for spotlights in the rooms, again what is wrong with having spot lights?
Because they are not designed for lighting up rooms - the clue lies in spot lights.


Yes I could buy florescent if I wanted to and get better energy but I'm not trying to compete with **** building regulations.
Nor should you - your obligation is to prove that the work you do complies with the Building Regulations.


It's up to me whether I have halogens or florescent
No it isn't.


who even cares?
Ultimately society cares. That's why we have these laws.


It's a case of changing the bulb !
I think you'll find that most LABCs follow the official guidance and insist on a minimum % of fittings that will only take energy efficient lamps.

You of course are free to enter into a dispute with them.


Why would I need a designer for christ sake it's a 2 bedroom rewire?
Because you are not competent to do it.


What on earth is the problem with some of you, need to cheer up.
Not so much a problem, more that we recognise your lack of competence.


and then people moaning about having a **** architect doing CAD drawings or something for the electrics.
Care to show where?


Don't be so stupid.
Likewise, I'm sure.

Go away and get a proper electrician do do the whole lot.
 
Does it actually matter how many people have spot lights in their houses? And the correct definition of a light bulb...
Quite. How you light your house is entirely up to you, and as for some of the electrical trade's unilateral decision to re-christen bulbs as lamps ...!! However, some people have bees in their bonnets about both those topics!

If, as you seem to be suggesting, many/most of your lights will usually be severely dimmed, that's fair enough. The point being made by some, with which I would agree, is that 200W-300W worth of lighting (non-dimmed) would be very excessive for all but very large rooms. However, some of those here just 'have a thing about' downlights and spotlights, and will say rude things about them no matter what the power or degree of dimming!
...whoever said £250 materials to rewire the whole house is clearly thinking of one standard sh1tty pendant in each room emitting dungeon light
I may have missed that - the only figure I recall being quoted was £450 - which, with true trade discounts might be just about do-able for some houses, with fairly modest requirements.

You need to be fairly selective in terms who you take much notice of, and who you 'take seriously', in any forum like this.

Kind Regards, John
 
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I guess in the age of some of you guys, pre world war you'd be lucky to have a working light in the house, things have come some distance since then.
Those were the days, not pre war but the 1950's when people were polite and accepted advice without giving rude comments when the advice was not the advice they wanted to hear..

Good luck with all those dimmers. You are aware that many cheap dimmers create so much electrical noise on the mains that other dimmers become unstable.

Dimmers work by chopping the power on and off. To prevent the dimmers creating a lot of internal heat the switching has be as rapid as possible, from ON to OFF in a few micro-seconds 100 times a second. ( slow switching creates heat in the switching device ). The rapid change in current causes voltage spikes and dips on the mains ( electrical noise ) and these spikes and dips confuse other dimmers.
 
I guess in the age of some of you guys, pre world war you'd be lucky to have a working light in the house, things have come some distance since then.
Those were the days, not pre war but the 1950's when people were polite and accepted advice without giving rude comments when the advice was not the advice they wanted to hear..

Good luck with all those dimmers. You are aware that many cheap dimmers create so much electrical noise on the mains that other dimmers become unstable.

Dimmers work by chopping the power on and off. To prevent the dimmers creating a lot of internal heat the switching has be as rapid as possible, from ON to OFF in a few micro-seconds 100 times a second. ( slow switching creates heat in the switching device ). The rapid change in current causes voltage spikes and dips on the mains ( electrical noise ) and these spikes and dips confuse other dimmers.

Not only that but they cause radio interference to you and your neighbours. If you don't believe me try listening to radio 4 on long wave with them operating at half brightness.

If you want to control room brightness best to have say 3 sets of lights and only switch one of two on.
 
Not only that but they cause radio interference to you and your neighbours. If you don't believe me try listening to radio 4 on long wave with them operating at half brightness.
Indeed. If one wanted an EMI-free ('chopping free') dimmer, I suppose one would use a massive variable capacitor! - by my reckoning, something like 100,000 μF ought to do it - but you might need an extra house or two to house the dimmer in!

Kind Regards, John μ
 
Not only that but they cause radio interference to you and your neighbours. If you don't believe me try listening to radio 4 on long wave with them operating at half brightness.
Indeed. If one wanted an EMI-free ('chopping free') dimmer, I suppose one would use a massive variable capacitor! - by my reckoning, something like 100,000 μF ought to do it - but you might need an extra house or two to house the dimmer in!

Kind Regards, John μ

Or a variable DC input to an appropriately designed switch-mode driver, for modern types of lamp.
 
And with regards the cost, I'd defy anyone here to get that list for under £600 (including VAT)

Not even that hard, especially if you have an account with a proper supplier.

I'm missing, uh.. a cheap distribution amp and an inappropriate aerial, and am at about £590 with no discount.

It also saves energy as I can have them on low..

Saves less energy than more appropriate lighting systems, and burns through halogen lamps because they are not suitable for dimming.

Then you're buying ****e? Or that's without VAT

If they aren't suitable for dimming they wouldn't sell them would they ?
 

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