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The pencil lines are incorrect. I bought 90mm coving and was given false information. On the fitting sheet it told me to mark a line 83mm across the ceiling, and 83mm down the wall, which meant to coving was nowhere near each mark!
The narrow lines, I made the coving square with the wall and ceiling and just marked them off that way
The pencil lines are incorrect. I bought 90mm coving and was given false information. On the fitting sheet it told me to mark a line 83mm across the ceiling, and 83mm down the wall, which meant to coving was nowhere near each mark!
The narrow lines, I made the coving square with the wall and ceiling and just marked them off that way
Gonna pinch that idea.The idea of the lines, is to ensure you get the coving square into the corner, not up the wall too much, not set too low. What I found useful, to enure both edges of the coving were equally spaced from the wall/ceiling corner - was to hammer in a series of panel pins, along the line, along the wall. That makes it easy to get into the right place, and helps support it, whilst the adhesive sets. Once set, the pins just pull out, leaving almost no mark.
Great thanks guys. Can I ask, would you have any idea as to the distance the lines should be down the wall and across the ceiling for a 90mm coving?
I was definitely given the wrong info from wickes!!
How times have changed, one has to go hunting on the internet for info these days. When I first bought coving in the 70's the tip above this was on the instruction sheet that came with cove, also how to make the cutting box I made...It's so easy to get it too high up the wall/too low....
What I found useful, to enure both edges of the coving were equally spaced from the wall/ceiling corner - was to hammer in a series of panel pins, along the line, along the wall. That makes it easy to get into the right place, and helps support it, whilst the adhesive sets. Once set, the pins just pull out, leaving almost no mark.
I bought some Draper blades when one of the Homebase stores closed which fitted okI prefer using my Nobex Champion (frame saw) to cut coving, I put a pencil mark on the base plate as a guide. The upside is that I know that my mitres will be true in all planes. I use the 32tpi metal cutting blade, unfortunately blades are increasingly becoming difficult to buy.
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