Coving Tool Issue

[Paul17088071]

Hi all

I’m currently attempting to fit my coving using the 90mm coving tool from Wickes. Following the instructions, i’ve put the first internal corner up and they aren’t butting up to each other

Any ideas why it isn’t sitting correctly?

Many thanks

 

[johnny2007]

You have to make sure you angle the saw to follow the tool profile.
Also, make sure you put the ceiling side in the correct position which is marked on the tool and on the back of the coving.
Finally, you'll need to make sure the flat bits of the coving are flat to the wall and the coving doesn't slide up or down so to mess up the corner.
BTW, unless the walls are at perfect 90⁰, there will be some filling to do and if you're using coving adhesive in powder, you can fill with that.

 

[Paul17088071]

Many thanks for the info.

I believe the walls may not be 90 degrees, I’ll check this out tonight! May need to fill in the gaps instead

 

[lostinthelight]

You cant go wrong if you make a box up like:

How can I calculate the cornice mitre and bevel angle?

We're currently coming to the end of our DIY kitchen install - we're nearly complete but currently struggling with our wall unit cornice. We cannot get the right angle on our chop saw to give us perfect 90° joints. Online seems to suggest that we need to find the spring angle, which according...

www.diynot.com

 

[opps]

Assuming that your lower pencil line is correct- you have deviated from it...

The bottom will never line up.

It look like the two sections are sitting in different planes.

I do coving occasionally, not very often though.

Like you, I will run a pencil line but yours seem to be massively incorrect.

The right hand pencil lines are way bigger than the left hand side.

 

[Paul17088071]

The pencil lines are incorrect. I bought 90mm coving and was given false information. On the fitting sheet it told me to mark a line 83mm across the ceiling, and 83mm down the wall, which meant to coving was nowhere near each mark!

The narrow lines, I made the coving square with the wall and ceiling and just marked them off that way

 

[opps]

The pencil lines are incorrect. I bought 90mm coving and was given false information. On the fitting sheet it told me to mark a line 83mm across the ceiling, and 83mm down the wall, which meant to coving was nowhere near each mark!

The narrow lines, I made the coving square with the wall and ceiling and just marked them off that way

Fair play, but the more important line is the bottom line, you have deviated a lot from that.

I am a decorator- from time to time I need to sort out coving that is all over the place.

When the lower joints are at different levels, I use a straight edge, wrap it with polythene and force feed 2 pack filler. The filler will not adhere to the two pack.

Ideally I aim for a 600mm feather.

In your defence- the stippled finish may have thrown out your markings.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

The pencil lines are incorrect. I bought 90mm coving and was given false information. On the fitting sheet it told me to mark a line 83mm across the ceiling, and 83mm down the wall, which meant to coving was nowhere near each mark!

The narrow lines, I made the coving square with the wall and ceiling and just marked them off that way

It's so easy to get it too high up the wall/too low....

The idea of the lines, is to ensure you get the coving square into the corner, not up the wall too much, not set too low. What I found useful, to enure both edges of the coving were equally spaced from the wall/ceiling corner - was to hammer in a series of panel pins, along the line, along the wall. That makes it easy to get into the right place, and helps support it, whilst the adhesive sets. Once set, the pins just pull out, leaving almost no mark.

 

[Odds]

The idea of the lines, is to ensure you get the coving square into the corner, not up the wall too much, not set too low. What I found useful, to enure both edges of the coving were equally spaced from the wall/ceiling corner - was to hammer in a series of panel pins, along the line, along the wall. That makes it easy to get into the right place, and helps support it, whilst the adhesive sets. Once set, the pins just pull out, leaving almost no mark.

Gonna pinch that idea.

 

[Paul17088071]

Great thanks guys. Can I ask, would you have any idea as to the distance the lines should be down the wall and across the ceiling for a 90mm coving?

I was definitely given the wrong info from wickes!!

 

[Odds]

Suddenly i have a craving for spam for lunch.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Great thanks guys. Can I ask, would you have any idea as to the distance the lines should be down the wall and across the ceiling for a 90mm coving?

I was definitely given the wrong info from wickes!!

You can easily determine that, by your own measurements - cut a short section of coving off, place it somewhere which has a perfect 90 degree corner, adjust it up and down so it is absolutely equal, then measure distance out from corner.

 

[lostinthelight]

It's so easy to get it too high up the wall/too low....

What I found useful, to enure both edges of the coving were equally spaced from the wall/ceiling corner - was to hammer in a series of panel pins, along the line, along the wall. That makes it easy to get into the right place, and helps support it, whilst the adhesive sets. Once set, the pins just pull out, leaving almost no mark.

How times have changed, one has to go hunting on the internet for info these days. When I first bought coving in the 70's the tip above this was on the instruction sheet that came with cove, also how to make the cutting box I made...

 

[opps]

I prefer using my Nobex Champion (frame saw) to cut coving, I put a pencil mark on the base plate as a guide. The upside is that I know that my mitres will be true in all planes. I use the 32tpi metal cutting blade, unfortunately blades are increasingly becoming difficult to buy.

 

[lostinthelight]

I prefer using my Nobex Champion (frame saw) to cut coving, I put a pencil mark on the base plate as a guide. The upside is that I know that my mitres will be true in all planes. I use the 32tpi metal cutting blade, unfortunately blades are increasingly becoming difficult to buy.

I bought some Draper blades when one of the Homebase stores closed which fitted ok