Touch Lamp

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Hope this is in the right section.

I've got one of these touch lamps (you know the ones that you touch and it has three levels of brightness and off). The bulb blew in it and I've just replaced the bulb but now it's on permanently. When I touch it, it's not going off or dimming.

Is it knackered? :confused:
 
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Sounds like the inrush of current caused by the blowing lamp may have damaged part of the circuitry. How much do they cost new?
 
Unplug it and leave it for half hour, it may sort itself out.
 
The failing lamp has probably blown the triac in the dimmer circuit.

I think it's probably new light time :cry:
 
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I think they're only about 20 quid new.

I had an idea that something inside had kinda went bang. I suppose I could put an inline switch on the cable? Would that be OK? I know that there's no earth in the cable wire and the body of the lamp is metal, so if I put an inline switch in, I'm not gonna plug myself into the national grid am I? :LOL: :LOL:

Thanks all.
 
If you did do that, the module inside would still be powered up, if it is damaged you do not know if it is safe.

If you did want to fit a switch as you say, you first need to really remove that module completely, and rejoin the relevant cables in the lamp to reinstate power to the lampholder.

The safest way, if you are unsure, may be to get a new one
 
Cheers. Might go and test out my powers of un-assembling lamps. I know it's just as cheap to buy another one, but it's a pretty lamp and it seems a shame to chuck it - if it can be fixed easy.

If I can't take out the faulty bit and I knacker it, well no harm done cos it's knackered anyway!! :LOL: :LOL:

The amount of bulbs and lamps that have blown since the house got rewired is unbelievable! I should take out shares in a bulb making company!! :LOL: :LOL:
 
If you do manage to get it apart and wanted to try and fix it, a new triac should be less than quid, and should be pretty easy to replace as long as you can wield a soldering iron.

Just need to know the numbers off the side of it, it should look something like this and will most likely be bolted to some kind of heatsink

(one thing you have to be carful of [amonst others] with triacs, is that the metal tab can be connected to one of the terminals, in most cases its wise to look for 'isolated tab' triacs and they are quite readily available these days)
 
Good timing - I just pulled the little plastic unit inside the base of the lamp to bits and then thought I'd come and check this thread before I cut the wires off!

I've found the triac, but I'm not sure how the heck I'd get it out - it's like it's bedded into melted plastic stuff - everything in the plastic unit is sunk into this. :confused:
 
throw it away, or chop the wire off and use it for decoration.

ist sounds like its been moulded in :cry:
 
Just to be sure before you throw it away, you didn't replace the lamp with an energy saving lamp did you?
 
Just to be sure before you throw it away, you didn't replace the lamp with an energy saving lamp did you?

No, it's little golf ball bulbs that go in it with a small bayonet fitting, so it's a like for like bulb.

I've cut the wires, found the earth which is attached to the module bit and the base of the lamp, am none too sure about what to do with it, so I'm gonna admit defeat and go and buy a new lamp!

It was worth a try............ :confused:
 
Is the lamp the same wattage? You may have put a lower wattage lamp in? these devices need a minimum wattage to work properly
 
Yep, same wattage bulb. I think the surge must've just killed it.

It's happened to a couple of appliances. We got rewired two years ago and since then, I've had bulbs and fuses blowing on a regular basis.

I've even got a really cracking problem - when you switch the bathroom light off, the outside security light comes on!!!!! Work that one out!
 
I've even got a really cracking problem - when you switch the bathroom light off, the outside security light comes on!!!!! Work that one out!
does the bathroom switch have three terminals? They've probably tried nicking a live feed from the switch( presuming its a PIR security fitting) as its near and just put the wire into the wrong terminal, easy to rectify.
 

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