Recent content by al4567

Thanks for your replies so far, they are much appreciated. Yes I think copper is better for sure, but I guess hoses are usually used for ovens that may be freestanding or built in, to allow for movement for access behind. My question is what the Gas safe regulations will actually allow. Will...

Can a gas hob be connected using a normal bayonet fitting hose to an existing supplied bayonet? The question is really...... does that comply with gas safe regulations? Or.... does it have to be "hard" piped in copper?

The above is now the likely job as I understand it. I discovered a lot more this weekend! EDF are a bunch of wasters as they never turned up in the due date for installation and when phoned the next day to say "where were you?" they responded that the address was in Croydon borough rather...

Thanks guys for your responses. I was told last night that there was no earth fitted, so therefore it makes sense that a charge is made to put one in rather than repair an existing one for free. However I'll check what was done today if I can. There was previously a little conversation about...

Pensioners in Croydon in a 1930-ish house are having a new kitchen installed and the old wire fuse-box replaced with a modern consumer unit.... that's all good :-) To do that the house needs a new earth supplied. EDF are to do it, and requested about £280 as a fee. Discount for pensioners...

"That said, quite what 'equipotential crossbonding' is I'm not sure..." It appears to be a posh and confusing(to the layman) term for cross earthing everything metal! I'm suspicious as they appear to be charging £192 for about ten feet of cable, and then another £82 for screwing the cooker...

I think we're on the verge of being ripped by Ikea's kitchen fitters? 1920's house with old fuse box with wire fuses etc. Gas oven being replaced with electric oven, so it needs a radial main for the cooker and hob. "Install radial main for the cooker hob" is £192, it's 10 feet from the...

Just a note.... I destructively tested the glue joint today, and when it failed it showed exactly what I suspected, that the glue seperated cleanly from the surface of the lacquer, leaving the Lacquer behind. However! It took most of my weight on a 5 inch length of tongue and groove joint...

Not seen any instructions yet! Just lots of sealed boxes...... The test piece I glued(unsanded) yesterday seems to have an excellent bond! I will test it destructively this evening though(it's only 6" long), to see whether there is any true bond or not.

That sounds like a very good explanation! After a bit of thinking, I reckon I can position it very close to the boiler and on the return no problem. Close to ideal I believe??

I was thinking to stagger them at 1/3 board intervals, but that would create a shallow diagonal line of ends. Is that acceptable or should it be more random?

They are 910mmm long, by 122mm wide, 18mm thick Acacia. We want them to run across the house, the same direction as the original floorboards, hence being floated over hardboard and underlay.

I don't have them in front of me right now, but from memory they are 910mm by 122mm. They are all full length at 910mm. Today I have joined a short test-piece with PVA to see what the bond is like on the lacquer. However looking more closely at it, I realise I can sand the mating faces of...

My flooring has been delivered, and is lovely indeed, can't wait to get it laid, but....... the lacquer extends right over both the tongue and the grooved edges, down to the base thereby sealing the porosity of the glueing area which is what PVA glues rely upon for bonding! So... what are my...

Thanks Dave, any particular reason to use the return? Doesn't really matter as I can get to either where I want to site it, but wondered about the reasoning behind that choice?