Recent content by baileyswalk

Found this about 2ft deep and 4ft from property wall. At first I thought it was a water pipe but the bend in it now has been wondering if it's mains cable?

What about the cracks in the concrete - OK to use regular mortar or better off getting something specific for the job?

Thanks for that, found some more useful info after searching for the norcros stuff, they don't suggest applying PVA unless it has been power floated which seeing as it was put down in the 30's I doubt it.

I'm in the process of prep'ing a concrete sub floor. I just want to make sure I've done everything correctly before the self levelling. The concrete has quite a few cracks in it, which are also high points. So I've been grinding these down which has opened them up a bit and they will now need...

Hi, Renovating the kitchen where I have a concrete sub floor with some cracks & high points. What's the best option to lay underfloor heating on-top of this on a budget while trying to keep additional height down to a minimum. I will need to grind down the high points but do I really need to...

It's a new door, oak veneer, engineered. But the bottom is exposed, no trim and looks like chipboard, I was surprised it was like that tbh. So you think I could cut the bottom with a circular saw or some such?

Had the bathroom floor tiled now the door doesn't fit. Door is 78" & the door way is now 77". Can I trim about half an inch off the door jamb header and half an inch off the door? Or should I start looking for a new door... (I'd rather not).

Sparky did it late on on Sat then fixed it first thing Sunday. No drama, thanks for all the help (and speculation ;)) tho.

Was probably due to all the alcohol consumed.

I think the problem was with the CU's neutral wiring, the twinned earth was probably just something I picked up on while confusion reigned.

Aye, the RCD's are 63A on the new CU so I don't see it being a problem.

Can u get surface mounted trunking that doesnt look rank? Would just be in the corner from counter top to wall unit.

3m tails were used, not sure if they were trimmed looks more like 2.5m. They are not in the wall, they are exposed right now but will be put in trunking or more likely boxed in and plaster boarded when the kitchen is done. What about the 63A isolator, I notice the new CU is indeed a 100A main...

It was done to lengthen the tails. He did want a 100A in there but couldn't get one at short notice. Is it just a question of putting one in? Here's a PIC: