Recent content by chivers67

Has the shower got another protective device not shown in your photo then?

You need to find the power rating of whatever you're trying to connect. As long as it doesn't overload the circuit it should be ok. It Should have RCD protection outside, has it got that anywhere?

MK Master Seal Guaranteed for years! Any good for you?

Am I missing something here? It says 16A on that plug at present however the Unit only seems to draw 4.6A

Well the clips will be 120 degrees from each other, it's hard to see how they hold the glass in place though. Are there slots for the clips on the light fitting anywhere it looks like I can see two from the photo?

Anything below 30A is going to be awful in Winter when the ambient water temperature is a lot lower. Do you not own the property?

Is that junction box actually part of a Ring? If the answer is yes you could remove that completely and replace it with surface backbox and a single socket. This would make it easier to remove the Dishwasher completely for any future maintenance a 13A fused connection unit could be suitable it...

Actually you're right John, needs three x three way Wagos

You just need to strip a bit of the black cable sheath off and literally install the brown to the Wago block with Browns, The Earth to the Wago block with Earths and the Blue to the Wago block with blue cables. *Edit Requires 3 New Wago blocks or similar to accept three conductors*

Did the guy at the Consumer unit have any kind of tester? How many circuits? Regardless of the time taken this wasn't done correctly if the guy walking about didn't have any Test equipment, he'd need to check socket measurements/polarity at the very least and RCD trip times if you have any? Why...

Does that Switched Fused connection unit Feed the Socket? If so plugging your fresh air into it should be fine.

Normally up to 6mm for FCUs but it depends on the manufacturer.

IR only really reduces when joints are made outside from my experience

I try not to use plastic plasterboard boxes, I tend to fit a noggin and use metal boxes as they are better from a maintenance aspect and often I have found the lugs on the plastic boxes to be temperamental. I normally tuck all cables inside the back box in a loop then and place a piece of...

The only way of removing that without disruption is to pull the cable up/out enough to cut it with a multi tool with a metal cutting blade or angle grinder but really not worth the grief. Then hope the conductors push back down!