Just a quick check to make sure I've got this right - I've currently got a programmable wireless roomstat Danfoss RX1 and am swapping it for a Hive 2. No programmer on the boiler - all done from thermostat.
Intended wiring below - does this seem correct?
Ah, now that's the answer I want to hear Plugwash :lol:
A temporary respite before I get the p**s taken out of me by my sparky colleague who's going to test the system... :oops:
1/2 inch
Very true. But given the low wattage, is likely to be unsafe?
I can deal with the embarrassment of a badly designed system but not an unsafe system...
I notice ban-all-sheds in another post mentioning that you shouldn't fill conduit or trunking more than 45%, IIRC.
Does this mean the 1.5mm T&E (and 1mm 3C & E) in the steel conduit that holds my lighting circuit is dodgy?
Uh oh. And I thought my electrical jobs were over :(
Looks...
Am swithering over whether to put in 12v halogen downlighters into my bathroom or those new fangled LED ones.
Having put the standard 12v halogens into a previous bathroom I know that I need 6 x 20w. Haven't a clue with the LED ones though (and anyone know a good article on calculating lux?)...
Have bought 3 Kidde 240v smoke alarms from TLC and am planning to fit them onto their own radial from the consumer unit and interlink them.
Question is - can I simply run the 1mm straight to the first alarm from the MCB or should it go through a FCU. Instructions talk of putting them on a...
You shame me - my MK box looks like a rats nest in comparison! Very neat.
Did Scottish Power require your system to be certified by an electrician before they'd attach to it?
I use an angle grinder with a stone cutting wheel to cut the 2 verticle slots then put a horizonal cross cut every 3 inches or so to make chiselling out easier.
Have to agree with the others though - produces a fantastic amount of mess. OK when house is bare, not so good if any furniture in...