Recent content by PowerFlushAssociation

This is more common that people think. There is a hard sludge build-up where the vent and down feed pipe meets the return pipe just before the pump. It has to be cut out and cleaned or replaced.

If you have enough inhibitor in the system it will prevent rusting from the inside. Bathroom radiators in particular rust badly on the inside and outside and will eventually leak. Replace radiators and make sure you have inhibitor added, if you are not sure add more - you can't have too much...

Sludge remover will loosen up and break down (into smaller pieces) sludge in the system - NOT make it disappear. Filling a system with sludge remover and not power flushing will cause future problems. Unless you are willing to power flush first, then add inhibitor to prevent sludge forming...

Power flushing is about water quality and is a cleaning process. Yes it might have been needed to improve water quality and prevent these type of problems, but a stuck diverter valve and other physical problems will have to be repaired separately after the system is clean. It sound like you...

Fundamentals: Putting in sludge remover does not make the sludge disappear only breaks it down in smaller pieces and makes loads that were stuck on the inside walls (out of the way) fall off and start circulating around (now in the way) Sludge remover will have to be flushes out / drained out...

Power flushing will only remove loose or newly loosened up (with chemicals) sludge. Hardened sludge that is stuck on the internal surfaces of the system will just stay there and hopefully never move. The flow rates used while power flushing, is much higher than the system pump; if a power flush...

Power flushing uses: - a power flush machine - Magnets - Chemicals - Connects into system from one point - Cleans the whole system from loose sludge When you power flush you do not take off radiators and was them out. This is also not called a power flush. Taking of the radiators off...

You could disconnect the flow and return pipes from the boiler and connect a power flush machine directly onto it. You have to be a little careful here: The power flush machines used for boiler flushing is smaller and weaker than for whole system flushing. The real risks are with combi...

As said: Most likely that you have sludge in the secondary heat exchanger (plate heat exchanger) which need to be removed and cleaned or replaced.

You can mix inhibitors, most of the chemicals in them are the same. The really important bit is that you use inhibitors that are safe to use with aluminum. Even if you think you don't have it in your system, getting it wrong causes lots of problems and costs. Luckily it is rare to find...

Modern TRVs are bi-directional, so it does not matter on which side they are fitted. It is likely to installation debris stuck in one of the radiator valves. They should have power flushed the system to get it clean, it really matters on a one pipe system.

Yes, not all plumbers have a power flush machine because of cost and lots of clients don't want to pay the extra for the power flush over a flush or chemical flush, anyway. It's down to what has been quoted for vs. what was really done; a chemical flush or a power flush. You should have...

Phone manufacturer of the boiler; "Gloworm". They will charge, but they will have the parts to deal with it, with as little hassle as possible.

If you are going to power flush the central heating system, there is no real point in draining it. You can only flush a system that is filled with water so you might as well start with all the water in it. The power flush machine will clean and replace the water as it moves through it (bit more...

Just maybe: - Was the regulator changed when the boiler was changed? The old one could have supplied more gas than the meter counted so you only notice now how much the boiler really uses. - Gas pipe sizes, ok? No debris in gas pipes?