Recent content by sunburyashes

I'm after some advice, may be overkill but here goes........ Interior load bearing solid wall is being rebuilt and I am moving a door way across 2 ft which will result in the above wall on the first floor to have no support for 500mm. I'm thinking of putting an I beam/Inverted T or similar...

The floor isn't level and I'm putting in oak floorboards, yes I know I'm making work for myself! The house was built circa 1800's and the joists are all different across the property, upstairs is across 3 different levels Thanks for the measurements and timber sizes! :D

Yes it a standard house in all aspects, 1st floor bedroooms, toilet, bathroom etc No it isn't a fire break as it is above a downstairs toilet also, the rest of the house is traditional joists/ceilings, just this part. What spacing would I need to see how many I would need across the 2 metres?

I am taking out chipboard flooring upstairs in my house and replacing it with oak flooring. I have discovered that in my toilet the flooring has been laid on suspended beams over a concrete base (Not sure how they have laid it?) I want to take out the concrete and redo the ceiling below...

Detached 1800 georgian cottage, goes into the ground 2 ft away from the wall if that

I agree it's and ugly solution but I can't see any other alternative! With regards to the damp I've dug my neighbours soil away from my house and the bricks are now drying out but I currently have a water butt in his garden catching the water from the 3mtr length of gutter.

I have a problem........... I have a width of guttering approx 3mtrs on the back of my house which is over my neighbours land, this then goes into the ground (soakaway) my neighbours soil is 3ft up the side of my house and I have a damp problem. Is there a solution where I can run the...

Would a metal L shape catnic lintel be sufficient? I have looked at these and they look like they are OK but I don't know if they could support the load above, the house is 2 storey? The 1st window I am doing is 1,200mm wide (Inc 150mm each side) & the L shape will allow me to butt it...

I am repointing the external walls of an 1800's cottage and noticed that the bricks have dropped above all the windows, the walls are 9" solid brickwork with no cavity. Upon further investigation I have discovered there are no external lintels above the windows themselves (Outer skin of...

Sorry for bringing this thread back up! I have been waiting for the bricks to dry out for a while now & have been looking at alternative solutions as the bricks are quite bad. I have found an external insulation (Alsecco) in the meantime. What are the benefits/comparisons between...

I have not dug out anything yet and the internal brick supporting walls do look dodgy to say the least, the bricks are spalling badly The property has not got a DPM anywhere in the building and where I have replaced bricks at ground level it appears it has no footings either and has been...

Sorry to ask but why would I need calcs for a floor? :shock:

My cottage was built in the 1800's and has what appears to be damp coming up from the concrete floor into the surrounding walls, the top has what looks like asphalt on it, I want to completely dig out my concrete floor and replace properly. What layers, depth, insulation etc would I need to...

I am going to support the bottom course of bricks with 2 x 2 meter steel I beams (152x152) one for each skin. I had an engineer out to look at mini-piling and he allowed for a total working load of 100kN and quoted me £2k to do the job. My question is could the steel take that weight and...

Just had a surveyor/engineer round and they said that a potential solution may be mini-piles with 3 needle beams - one across the corner diagonally and then one either side coming straight out from the house. - I'm told it isn't cheap? Another alternative is to try and find solid ground...