iBoost+ lost pairing, normal or some thing wrong?

During winter the DHW is heated with oil no way to turn it off, so the iboost+ only does anything on a warm day. Wife complained of no hot water, red warning on the iboost main unit and pressing button showed lost contact with CT coil, went down changed batteries old ones showing 1.4 volt each, still no hot water, since it says do not press pairing button or pairing will be lost from factory I expected it to fire back up, but no, tried pressing pairing on main unit then going down two sets of steps to press CT coil button, but not fast enough, so got wife to press button upstairs and I stayed down stairs and hay presto it worked.

However did expect batteries to last longer, and only person who could have pressed button on CT coil is the smart meter fitter, can't see why he would touch it.

So does it normally need repairing after only 6 months, it says should last a year. And should it loose pairing when batteries get down to 1.4 volt, that would rule out rechargeable type.

Per the instructions (https://www.solartradesales.co.uk/Cache/Downloads/manual.pdf):

"When fitting batteries or DC power supply the sender should be 1-2m away from the Solar iBoost+"

It does also mention needing to re-pair "if the signal becomes lost", also done 1-2m away, I think your batteries were probably fine for a bit longer.

hllns said:

"When fitting batteries or DC power supply the sender should be 1-2m away from the Solar iBoost+"

Click to expand...

Solar iBoost Installer Manual said:

When fitting the batteries the sender should be at least 1-2m away from the Solar iBoost+

Click to expand...

Note the "at least" mine is two floors down. Same in your version to mine. I wonder if the guy fitting the Smart meter pressed the button, I quoted and he seemed unaware, both the solar panel and the iboost+ it does matter, and it seems he didn't know, and he had to turn one around, so maybe new to the job, and he has picked it up by the button? Since it was January I would not have noticed.

The DC power supply does seem a good idea. Not sure if it would need to come from the UPS or not?