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Just to follow this up, Protan were great and prodded the contractor who have already been out and rectified the problem - thanks guys (y)

Good plan - i've dropped Protan an email.

That's what i was thinking.....easy to access from the first floor flat roof. Anybody suggest a good flat roofer in the Tayside/Dundee area??

They are proving remarkably elusive!

my understanding was that it uses mechanical fastenings and seam welds?

it's a PVC membrane (similar to sarnafil etc)

Looking for some advice guys - last year we had a new protan (single ply) flat roof installed on a dormer loft conversion. I was up the other day sorting some guttering and i noticed that wind is getting under the last section, presumably from the ridge (which was fitted at the same time. Here's...

I could probably change a fair amount of the 8mm to 10mm but would there be any point if some of the 8mm remained under the floor? To be fair, the existing system (despite the age) heats the house no problem and we've not had any problem with the microbore with all heaters heating up quickly and...

Yeah, to be honest i'd much rather keep a normal system rather than go down the combi route but with the loft conversion planned we'd really struggle to find space for the tank(s). An unvented system would maybe be possible by sacrificing a wardrobe/cupboard downstairs but it seems to add a...

Thanks for the replies guys - some extra comments below: It's a combi system i'm trying to get my head round which i assumed bigger (within reason!) was better? Dropping from the ceiling isn't an option either i'm afraid as the bit of the house with concrete floors is a flat room extension...

Evening guys Looking for a spot of advice as part of some planning i'm doing on a potential new system for our house. In summary, we've got an ancient baxi open flue boiler with a standard vented system and in the near future we're hoping to do a loft conversion and as space is tight we're...

okay, so i'm liking the idea of keeping the concrete sill and going with a small stub sill for neatness as making good the inside would be extra work i could do without! Just realised though that the sizes aren't as handy as i thought - width is fine at 1200 but the height of the old window...

had even considered that the old windows might be too far back! Taking out the brick sills etc might be a step too far for me though....maybe time to start looking for installers in the dundee/NE fife area :D

thanks DM That's kinda how i thought it would work, it's just that the external render on the returns is thicker than the internal plaster - i tried to take a couple of picture to show this: http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh102/niallmoran/Windows/IMGP4972.jpg...

Afternoon guys We're looking to replace a couple of poorly old wooden casement windows on our extension and i'm looking for some wise advice :D Firstly, wood or PVC? I was leaning towards wood just cause it's a bit nicer but as the extension is a flat room "box" aesthetics aren't too...

Cheers for the reply Dave - i think i would be out of my depth with that level of upgrade but i'll maybe have a word with our heating engineer and see what that level of upgrade would cost. Or maybe we should just get used to having exceptionally hot water!

Afternoon folks At present we have a rather aged Baxi system boiler that runs 5 radiators via 8mm microbore and heats the indirect HW tank in the loft. The only controls are a room thermostat in the hallway and a Horstmann Centaurplus C27 which our engineer fitted about 6 months ago to...