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Well by reading the heading of the post i managed to determine it does have a fan as it clearly says its a worcester 28cdi!!!!! Kev

No sorry you have the idea of the system rite but the return pipe is still pressurised no matter what rad valve you turn off! By closing the rad valve at each side of the rad all your doing is isolating the rad itself! The return pipework is still under pressure through the boiler! Kev

The only way your losing pressure that quickly is if you have a water leak due to the movement in the pipework due to trying to replace the radiator or your losing it out the PRV which can be caused by 3 things. 1. PRV leaking. 2. Expansion vessel needs recharged or replaced. 3. Heat...

Being totally honest it doesnt matter what rad u turn off as by turning both valves off at the radiator only isolates that actual rad not the pipework attached to it!!! If its holding at that pressure when that rad is isolated then the leak must be in the rad itself or where the valves...

It will more than likely be one of a few things causing it to trip on CH mode if the boiler used to work fine. One cause can be a short curcuit in the boiler caused by a water leak or two worn wires connecting. Also check the pump operation if that has stopped it can cause the system to trip...

I know that, its nice to hear the click (it may be digital we dont know that yet). The room stat is the easy one to check, especialy if you can get to the wiring & know what you are doing & can disconnect the wires. Easy tiger settle down I was suggesting replacing room stat only no need...

Just because it clicks doesnt mean it actually works! Sounds like its defo down to the room stat so I would start by replacing that especially since your heating works fine from the manual controls on boiler! Kev

I think this post has had the a*se ripped out it now guys! The tenant knows what he has to do now and what it may be so there is no need for people to try and out do one another and try and be top dog, lets just hope he finds it after the advice and leave it at that eh??? Kev

Again if there is no visable leaks above floor level then try under the floor! Only place left to check Im afraid as Im sure after all the past posts you have already checked all fittings and valves above floor level. With the amount of water your losing it shouldnt be too hard to find as...

Its a simple case of the pipes knocking under the floor when heating is on. Im afraid not much can be done about this unless you want to start lifting floors and investigating and even then it might not rid the system of the problem. Its down to you and if you can put up with it! Kev

If the PRV is bone dry then it looks like u have a leak under the floor! If its going down as much as you say then a leak sealer wont fix it! Best to start by lifting the floor in the hall as this is generally where most of the joints r located then just work your way from there trying to...

Before you go buying just the heads I would double check that the valve/valves themselves open and shut manually with the heads removed as if these are stuck then the whole valve and head will need replaced. You can do this by removing the heads and using grips to work the valve open and...

C1 defo not a gas fault im sure but if you have a gas cooker then try lighting that and if OK system is purged fine! If not then contact transco and have them purge the system for you correctly. Still thinking the fan though! Kev

Best thing to do is put the pressure up to 1.5 bar and switch heating on and leave on for an hour or so and go check it. If the pressure rises to 3 bar then the expansion vessel needs pressurised or has failed and needs replaced. To check this take the cap off the expansion vessel and push in...

What kind of system is it and if combi what boiler???? If leak is at the actual pump then you might be lucky and only need to replace the washer but if leaking from the pump body then whole lot and housing will best to be replaced! Do this first before even thinking about if an airlock is...

Not 100% but think C1 is a fan speed fault so might need replaced or check the voltage going to the fan is correct. Kev

remove the trv head and try giving the trv body a little bash on the side with a pair of grips as this might free up the pin and also try working the pin up and down. This might release the pin if its stuck in the off position. Also when filling up the rad via the system open both the...