Search results

Thanks for all the replies - that's really helpful. I have a Potterton Flamingo 50s which is indeed around 28 years old. I have TRVs on the rads, but found that I do infact use more Gas when they are used - even on frost detection setting if it's a bit chilly. So I don't have them on the...

So given that I already have 2 doubles is the idea of adding 2 extra rads worth it? I'm only considering because all the other rads in the house are turned off to save money.

Already doubles.

The idea is that if 2 rads on (out of 9) is inefficient because it's hard for the central heating circuit to transfer heat to the air, that 4 rads would be better. Have been meeting the heating needs with only 2 rads for several winters now with no damp issues. Can't replace the existing...

Hi folks I live in a 4 bed detacted by myself and it's too expensive to heat the whole house (I don't even have hot water on) especially as I'm not on benefits but have a very low income. I have a 28 year old system which is open vented Y plan. Only the large front rad and the adjoining...

Yeah it's pretty expensive - but then buying 3 different paints would be pricing too.

I was kind of hoping this product would do as a primer also. Anyone have any experience with it? Cheers

Also I've noticed a few black bits where I've been a bit over zealous. A few of them a some month old though and they haven't rusted. Why?

Hi everyone I've searched for the best thing to do when painting a metal garage up and over door, which I guess is galvanised as it hasn't rusted after 30 years :) I've read a number of threads and they tend to say different things. I've removed all the paint and am now back to bare metal...

I've got some spare rockwool that I never used when I did the loft. I'm thinking about cutting it up into bits and blowing that. Be a pain but have no money at the moment so no cost is better than some cost :) Thoughts anyone?

Hi I have a half roof over my front window and front door. It;s over 1m deep and nearly 1m high say. My front room radiator is underneath the front window which is underneath plasterboard. I've recently become aware that there is no insulation at all over this plasterboard. I only have...

Thanks very much for that - that makes sense.

Any idea why this is? I don't think it is due to a faulty main isolator.

Thanks for the reply. That's what I expected too. I'm using a digital miltimeter (Mastech MS8229). I know this is not a professional tool, though it has given me expected readings on everything else. When closing the MCBs, the L & N pd is 0Vac and when all open L & N pd is 2.5Vac

Afternoon all Tested CU today which had 2.5Vac L & E and L & N in load side of CU with main isolator open. All MCBs were open also. Load side L to supply side L was 50Vac or so. When closing the MCBs the potential difference dropped to 0 and the load L to supply L went to a normal...

Thanks for all the responses. Interesting that it seems to be a matter of opinion whether to test while live first or not if you are testing for dead. I think I'ld choose to test for live first if only to ensure the main switch is working correctly before isolating.

So a better test might be: Test voltage indicator on proving unit Test load side: - E & L - E & N - N & L Unload board, switch off main isolater Test load side: - E & L - E & N - N & L Retest voltage indicator

Hello everyone The sticky thread regarding Electric Safety advises that you should test for Live before and after isolating. I saw a UK Youtube video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MERh6H6AjdY) showing proper procedure for testing for dead within a consumer unit. Test voltage...

Should I have put this in the building forum instead? I don't know what the cause of the problem is :)