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If you need a piece of string to get the tool to work properly it must be a lousy design! Try a 'Bearhug' wrench, from e.g. BES or Toolstation! No string needed.

You can check the pipe sizing yourself (at least approximately) by looking at the nomogram at http://www.slumberlands.freeserve.co.uk/gasflow.htm Hope this helps Cheers Big Al

Try the 'Bearhug' adjustable basin/bath tap wrenches. They're good except for very tiny cloakroom basins. On sale online at (for example) B.E.S. (http://www.bes.co.uk/), or simply Google 'bearhug wrench' for other suppliers. Cheers, Big Al

All true, but if your house is well insulated (and it should be these days) then the temperature should not drop to outside temperature overnight, despite the heating being off. Our house has thick rockwool insulation in the loft, double glazing throughout, and rockwool cavity wall...

A house fully warmed up to the required temperature is like a bucket full of water with a hole in the bottom. They both leak heat (water) at a rate that increases with temperature (water level). The higher the temperature (water level), the faster does the heat (water) pour out through the...

Yes, you will have to move the pan away from the soil stack to break the pushfit connection. This usually means disconnecting the water inlet to the cistern, and the overflow connection if present, as well as unscrewing the cistern fixings (if present) from the wall. Any screws securing the...

Have a look at the site: www.slumberlands.freeserve.co.uk, for some help on this (and other) topics. Regards, Big Al

You could try using a 'Bearhug' wrench on the tap backnut (and tailnut). This is a newish tool widely available, e.g. from Toolbank or BES. This tool works on nuts that have become rounded as well. Cheers, Big Al

I'm assuming that your shower mixer is flush with the (tiled) wall, with all pipes totally concealed. Fitting 1 is screwed into the bottom of the mixer (lubed 'O'-ring in the mixer socket) where the mixed water exits on its way to the shower sprinkler. Fitting 2 is fixed to the tiled wall...

Surely there's enough room to get one hand up behind the sink between the wall and the sink back, to reach the mixer tap tails? Then you can assemble the tap back-nut using a long-reach box spanner. You'll have to lie on your back under the sink, of course! Big Al

Turning down the hall rad will, as you say, keep the wall thermostat switched 'on' all the time, and therefore keep the pump running all the time. But then the hall will be freezing all the time as well! Doing what I suggested -- turning up the thermostat to max -- will also keep it switched...

If the leak is between the pump and one of the isolation valves, tighten the big nut (clockwise) that links the pump body to the valve. If you can only reduce the leak to a slow drip you could put towels/bowls underneath till the plumber arrives. Alternatively, if you're prepared to get...

You've hit up against the classic weakness of a control system that uses the temperature of a single room (the hall in your case) to control the temperature of all the rooms in the house! It can never work properly, yet it is the most common heating system in the UK! I'm assuming that the...