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Thanks, it does look pretty thick as there a some deep scratches which have not reached the chipboard or whatever. However what then, after I have sanded it sown and fine steel wool smoothed it etc.?

I have a 1960 Teak Table, thick veneer with lots of water and other stains and light surface scratches, how best to refurbish this please?

Anyone out there had any experience? I am torn between Gold/Gold and Gold with Silver on top, if I buy the Gold/Silver it has to be inserted as a U shape, whereas the Gold/Gold supplier maintains one should insert as an inverted U shape. Does it matter?

I have a 1960s Teak Table (presumably thick veneer) with lots of water stains and various light surface marks. How can I restore it to looking reasonably new?

A nice bit of lateral thinking, Ta.

Fair enough, just that it is safer to turn off at the switch then handle pulling plugs out. I know of someone that when trying to wrestle a plug out managed to get her fingers under the plug and, wham, touched the live and neutral. Her husband wne and changed all 13 amp plus to those that have...

The other appliances are not easily accessable, whereas the extension lead is.

I bought a mains surge protector with 6 AC outlets (sockets) but it has only one on/off switch. Quite often I need to turn off one appliance (e.g. Sky Plus to reboot), but do not wish to turn of the other appliances in the other 5 sockets. Bottom line, does anyone know where I can buy such a...

Oilman, yep did just that, and they gave me the right advice, which is to fill the gap with a mixture of Vermiculite 5 to 1 with Portland Cement. Should jave guessed that was the right thing to do, once the supplier was not too sure. Thanks

The stove is an Insert Stove, designed to fit into a standard 16 inch width fireplace. It is just that my firepace is a bit deeper than the stove, anyhow I have decided not to pack the space with loft insulation, as suggested by the supplier, but rather fill the gap with firebrick. Thanks

There will be a 30mm gap at the back between the existing firebricks and the stove, I am worried that any falling soot may eventually ignite. I am advised I do not need a liner as the chimney has been tested and no leaks. It has been suggested that I pack this gap with loft insulation, is this...

I have an open fire and wish to instal a wood burning stove. I have been told it would cost about £1200 to line my existing chimney. Is it possible to put a liner in myself, just as I did for a Gas Boiler when I utilised another existing chimney?

We have an open fire and 2-3 years of logs to burn. Can I fit a back boiler and hook it up into the radiator pipes circuit thereby putting heat into the circuit, which will, hopefully, reduce my gas bill? We have a standard Potterton Gas Boiler (not Combi), with a circulating pump.

I have armoured cable feeding an outside light. Can I break into it to add an extension for another light?

I am just about to floor tile on WPP Ply, but I have yet to put together a Vanity Unit, I have the pipes and waste installed, but should I tile the floor first and stand the unit on, or put in the unit and tile up to it?

Just to add to the confusion. I have a box of screws which state size 8 1.5 inches. (great 'cos my plugs say use size 8 screws and a 5/5.5 drill). I buy some more and the box states 4 x 40mm, what happened to the '8', how would I know that this is supposed to be an '8' screw thickness. Then...

What a wonderful Forum, my grateful thanks to all the screwers!

How come we are all urged to insulate our lofts, and when I come to do it, find loads of cables running on top of the plaster boards, between joists and read that cables will heat up if under that 'orrible itchy insulation stuff?

The big gate valve from the loft tank is seized, despite WD40 and as much force as I dare use. I have in the past with stubborn big nuts and bolts played a blow torch on them with success. However is there a rubber washer in the gate valve/stop cock which might melt if I used this method?

My big Gate Valves (in the loft) are seized up. Is it O.K. to use the trick of heating them up with a blow torch, as I have often used this method to free up siezed nuts and bolts or is there a rubber washer inside that will melt?