10mm cable and 2 ovens

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I've found a few older threads regarding this but the product links/pictures they refer to have now been removed/died so...

Having run a single 10mm cable (on a 32, possibly 40A RCBO - cant remember) to the back of the appliance bank I'm looking for something suitable to buy to run two ovens (each rated 3.65kw) off it. The ovens come with a skinny cable that looks a bit like a kettle lead with the plug removed. 2.5mm flex core, precrimped is my guess

I understand that a usual arrangement would be something like a sub-main with the 10mm cable feeding into a small enclosure with a couple of 16A MCB in there. Is this the only option, or does anyone know of an all in one double outlet with individual 16A rated outlets/a 16A fused plug and double socket system?

Probably someone will suggest "just get your sparky to do it - he's already wiring the rest of the place" - yes he is, but he's asked me to source all the components for various reasons so I thought I'd ask the enlightened souls here what they'd recommend to get..

Thanks guys
 
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Why can the electrician not tell you what components you require?
You can still source/purchase them!
I know I would, if installing, be more than happy to tell you exactly what would be needed and what product brand I would prefer and let you do the leg work and purchasing!
If the two appliances are close to each-other, you are probably looking for a dual outlet. Unless you need to isolate each individually, then some modification on the circuit would be needed, your sparks should be well aware of this!
After all he will be signing the work off, it is really not your responsibility!
 
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Having run a single 10mm cable
Well 10mm² is frequently used as a sub-main for whole flats which include ovens and showers and everything else.

(on a 32, possibly 40A RCBO - cant remember)
32A will be fine for upto 15kW of cooking appliances and therefore so would 4mm² cable (method C).

I'm looking for something suitable to buy to run two ovens (each rated 3.65kw) off it. The ovens come with a skinny cable that looks a bit like a kettle lead with the plug removed. 2.5mm flex core, precrimped is my guess
You don't need anything other than the 32A RCBO - check the oven cables are good for fault current or change them to 4mm².

I understand that a usual arrangement would be something like a sub-main with the 10mm cable feeding into a small enclosure with a couple of 16A MCB in there. Is this the only option, or does anyone know of an all in one double outlet with individual 16A rated outlets/a 16A fused plug and double socket system?
I think you are using the term "usual" for something no one has.
There are no 16A fused plugs.

Probably someone will suggest "just get your sparky to do it - he's already wiring the rest of the place" - yes he is, but he's asked me to source all the components for various reasons so I thought I'd ask the enlightened souls here what they'd recommend to get..
Then get some 4mm² cable (if method C - Clipped or buried in masonry), 6mm² if in any conduit. Oh. you've already run 10mm²; that was a waste.
Cooker switch (without socket on it)
Twin outlet Cooker Connection Unit.
Two @ 47mm. Back boxes.
Earth Fault Loop Impedance tester to check fault current.
 
Why can the electrician not tell you what components you require?
To truly appreciate the answer to that question you'd have to meet him, but for now we'll leave it at "the collective mind of the forum is probably better at presenting up to date solutions" ;)
 
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Then get some 4mm² cable (if method C - Clipped or buried in masonry), 6mm² if in any conduit. Oh. you've already run 10mm²; that was a waste.
Cooker switch (without socket on it)
Twin outlet Cooker Connection Unit.
Two @ 47mm. Back boxes.
Earth Fault Loop Impedance tester to check fault current.

The 10mm was left over from another job and came to me cheaper than I could get it anywhere else. The run is around 10 metres long and some (potentially half) of it is method 101; calcing the whole lot as if it was 101 gave 10mm..

Cheers for the shopping list!
 
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Must the outlet be fixed into the wall? The appliance housings are already attached to the wall, see.. was hoping to get the pattress mounted in the back of the housing, rather than the wall itself
 
or did someone say the 32A RCBO is sufficient as an isolator switch?

Not me your honour!

It is a very good idea to have local isolation, I personally would be isolating each appliance individually.
But as it seems your installer is retarded, that maybe out of their scope!
 

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