18mm MFC

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Hiya

Does anyone have some experienced tips in cutting MFC. I've read from using masking tape over the cut line (not great) to scoring the cut line with a sharp knife (never tried).

I basically want to build a h1905mm x w250mm x d270mm unit to go next to my fridge using this from Wickes - http://www.wickes.co.uk/furniture-panel/invt/110520/ - but it will be right in the limelight so want zero chipping!

DIY'er with this saw (I think) http://www.wickes.co.uk/invt/167586

Cheers
 
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Will both sides be on show, or one?

If one side, you can cut with a saw, as one side will be chip free.

If you need both sides chip free then a router is your best choice.
 
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Will both sides be on show, or one?

If one side, you can cut with a saw, as one side will be chip free.

If you need both sides chip free then a router is your best choice.

I guess for the carcass one only side - the side panel rear cuts won't be visible at all as there'll be a back panel recessed in.

The shelves though are different as you can see them from above and below. I can never remember with MFC if you cut face side up or not?
 
Cut with fine tooth saw and then bead of silicon along each joint will both hide cut edge and seal against spillage in cup'd.
 
Will both sides be on show, or one?

If one side, you can cut with a saw, as one side will be chip free.

If you need both sides chip free then a router is your best choice.

I guess for the carcass one only side - the side panel rear cuts won't be visible at all as there'll be a back panel recessed in.

The shelves though are different as you can see them from above and below. I can never remember with MFC if you cut face side up or not?

With a hand saw cut face up, with circular saw, cut upside down.

Try on a test piece first.
 
Thanks for all the replies guys.

It's all done now. I cut the carcass myself with a fine toothed hand saw, which actually leaves a neat finish on the face. The other side not so good but it's hidden. One problem I had with all cuts though, is that part way through the saw would persist on leaning to one side. If you eye up the cut along the length of it, you can see how it starts dead straight then veers off to one side. I had to stop cutting, cut off the scrap and start again along the same line.

I know this must be my technique but most other wood I'm much better with.

For the shelves I got Homebase to use their big machines as I needed them square, something I wan't confident doing with a hand saw. Again the face side is quite neat but the underside not so, so I will silicone along each cut as foxhole says.

But it got me thinking - if you take a Howdens 600 wide wall unit, how have they got the shelves immaculate? Do they cut bare chipboard first then cover with melamine. Or are their machines so much better than Homebase?
 
Thanks for all the replies guys.


But it got me thinking - if you take a Howdens 600 wide wall unit, how have they got the shelves immaculate? Do they cut bare chipboard first then cover with melamine. Or are their machines so much better than Homebase?

I think from memory they route the melamine boards first then iron on the edging, they also use wax sticks that are matched to the melamine to cover any imperfections, these if deep imperfections are layered, rubbed off, layered and so on.
 
But it got me thinking - if you take a Howdens 600 wide wall unit, how have they got the shelves immaculate? Do they cut bare chipboard first then cover with melamine. Or are their machines so much better than Homebase?
Yes, they're better. They're probably also operated by competent wood machinists rather than the spotty oiks that some of the sheds seem to employ
 
They're probably also operated by competent wood machinists rather than the spotty oiks that some of the sheds seem to employ

You're not wrong! It took me about 10 minutes to explain what cuts I wanted, and even then he seems confused.
 
I think from memory they route the melamine boards first then iron on the edging, they also use wax sticks that are matched to the melamine to cover any imperfections, these if deep imperfections are layered, rubbed off, layered and so on.

OK then, what would be a good router for about £100 ish. My birthday is coming up and I'm always struggling for ideas!

Also, I have only ever seen a router be used, never used one, so how would you actually chop through something in it's entirety (I have only seen them used for grooves and the like).
 
But it got me thinking - if you take a Howdens 600 wide wall unit, how have they got the shelves immaculate? Do they cut bare chipboard first then cover with melamine. Or are their machines so much better than Homebase?

Proper professional table saws have two blades. The first is a small blade that cuts only part way into the reserve edge, then a main large blade that finishes the cut. The small blades first removes anything that may chip so leaves a perfect edge on both sides.

Any decent timber workshop will have one of these saws installed. Ask there in future.
 
Proper professional table saws have two blades. The first is a small blade that cuts only part way into the reserve edge, then a main large blade that finishes the cut. The small blades first removes anything that may chip so leaves a perfect edge on both sides.

Any decent timber workshop will have one of these saws installed. Ask there in future.

I guess you get what you pay for. It was 50p per cut at Homebase and as most of the cuts are unseen I'm not overly worried. Next time I will use a proper workshop.

Although I suppose if I could set up my circular saw properly on a worktop and get a dead straight cut I could essentialy do this myself - set the depth of the first cut so it just nicks it, flip the board over and do a full depth cut?
 
I doubt it because because the small first saw on a the table saw cuts in the opposite direction. Also when cutting laminate or melamine the reserve side of the cut is the finished edge.

To get both sides finished neatly at home set up your router to trim the edge. Run the router along a straight edge. TaKe off no more than 5mm, remember to add the 5mm on to your main cut.
 

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