3 kW heater switch getting hot!

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Wonder why he fitted one with a fuse in the first place? (Unless that's all he had in the van!) Surely not

Perhaps because he established the cable on the heater was not rated at 20 amps.

Normally anything wired into a socket circuit (whether ring or radial) is protected by a fuse of 13 amp or less either in a plug or FCU.
 
I will admit that I was not considering a fan.

Do you think a little fan will make any difference?
 
It isn't a fan heater, I think it's a radiant wall heater. Put it this way there is no noise when it's on.
 
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Cheers EFL, so you mean having a 20 amp unfused switch fitted should solve the problem then?
I'm assuming I'm not allowed to do this myself even though it's just swapping one switch for another?
 
Yes, and yes you can do it. Make sure the terminals are tightened properly.

If any wires show signs of the overheating, cut back to fresh wire.
 
Thanks again EFL, that's saved me some money then. I'll do it this weekend.
 
Just fitted a new 20 amp switch.
You're right, the back of the fuse housing had melted. so much that I couldn't get the fuse out.
I really don't understand how this happens when the heater had a plug on it with a 13 amp fuse in it when it was new? Or is it just down to the quality or the fuse?
 
So did you decide if the cable on this heater is rated at 20 amps? Because if it isn't what you have done is WRONG, DANGEROUS, and will almost certainly invalidate your home insurance.
 
So did you decide if the cable on this heater is rated at 20 amps? Because if it isn't what you have done is WRONG, DANGEROUS, and will almost certainly invalidate your home insurance.
Hmmmm. That might be your opinion but, if that were the case, it would seem strange that (in the case under discussion) it would seemingly be complaint with BS7671 (per what EFLI has been saying).

In order for it to be permissible for a cable to have no overload protection (i.e. only fault protection) it is not necessary for it to be impossible for the load to produce an overload - it is merely required that it is "not likely" that the cable will carry overload current - and I would think that most people would have to agree that (although not totally impossible - little is!!) it not "likely" that a hard-wired non-fan heater would cause an overload current to flow.

Kind Regards, John
Edit: A bit too late again!
 
It is only a fixed load under no fault conditions. Suppose the fan failed, the element would burn out and a loose end could drop on to a lower part of the element thus putting a somewhat shorter length of element across the mains. Overload.

Wonder what the manufacturers instructions say on the subject. Bet they don't say if you cut the plug off you wire it direct to a 20 amp circuit.

Edit. Just realised it is not a fan heater, but even so a burnt out element could still do the same thing.
 
Is this going to be one of those cases where the manufacturer will state a 13 amp fuse must be present?

It does seem a poor design of heater where it causes it's fuse to get hot and melt the surroundings.

Admittedly it came with a 13 amp plug, which was removed, and replaced with a 13 amp switched fused spur.

Could the fused spur have been a cheap and nasty make?

I think it is usual to fit 13 amp switched fused spurs to serve appliances on socket circuits, mainly out of peace of mind, or convention, or doubt.
 
Why would the element burn out if a fan failed?

How would a burnt out element fall to an earthed part?


I presume you would be happy for it to be on a 16A circuit in Europe. ?
 

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