60mm stud / partition wall required

[BerkshireDIYer]

You could glue plasterboard either side of celotex and improve rigidity and sound proofing.

But surely like Freddie said "Every board edge must sit on timber and be fixed to it" makes perfect sense from a rigidity standpoint. Surely a "floating edge" is bad practice.

So the wall in question. The plaster board is coming off. I've been recommended by a well known interior fit out company to do 300mm centers and between 5 to 6 rows of noggins. IF I'm turning the CLS 90 degrees. Also use 2.4 X 1.2 boards. Less boards less cuts, less joins. All makes sense. 6 rows on noggins sounds a lot. But hey....hate having to get jobs redone. Dont we all.

Read more: https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/60mm-stud-partition-wall-required.571924/#ixzz6w4aLl1rU

 

[foxhole]

Not sure what you mean ? Boards are framed in timber and secured top and bottom to ceiling and floor .

 

[BerkshireDIYer]

Not sure what you mean ? Boards are framed in timber and secured top and bottom to ceiling and floor .

That the thing they are not, there is at least 8 mini boards, some of them are cut even smaller. I was expecting 2.4 X 1.2 boards floor to ceiling. And over a stud left and right. When I saw the mini boards arrive I was surprised, and then when I saw the mini boards had been cut in some areas into smaller mini mini boards. All I could think was oh no look at all thous joints haha

 

[foxhole]

Sorry thought you were asking how to build a replacement wall yourself.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

With plasterboard the joints must always be fully supported, otherwise they will eventually crack. All it takes us one drunken idiot or a boisterous kid. The other thing is that the smaller the board cuts, the weaker and less stiff the wall. This is the sort of jointing you should be aiming for with PB (the lilac soundbloc boards in the middle, an infill between two retail units)

Note the staggered joints (except for the narrow rip at the top) and the lack of small cuts on a fairly large wall infill. All the joints land on a stud. In this case rigidity was paramount. These boards have been laid horizontally as the second skin going onto the wall was set vertically to increase strength and reduce gaps through which noise can travel. BTW those are full size 2400 x 1200 boards

 

[BerkshireDIYer]

Sorry thought you were asking how to build a replacement wall yourself.

No the walls been build, it's floppy and

With plasterboard the joints must always be fully supported, otherwise they will eventually crack. All it takes us one drunken idiot or a boisterous kid. The other thing is that the smaller the board cuts, the weaker and less stiff the wall. This is the sort of jointing you should be aiming for with PB (the lilac soundbloc boards in the middle, an infill between two retail units)

View attachment 234891

Note the staggered joints (except for the narrow rip at the top) and the lack of small cuts on a fairly large wall infill. All the joints land on a stud. In this case rigidity is paramount. These boards have been laid horizontally as the second d skin going onto the wall will.be laid vertically to increase strength and reduce gaps through which noise can travel. Those are full size 2400 x 1200 boards

Yeah it's been done like nothing you have explained. Mini boards were used, most of which were ever ripped down ( dont know why ) over a standard height wall by 3.6 meters there are probably around 7 to 8 cut boards. Also not all the board land on timber. So she's coming off and starting again.